In a dispatch from Southern California, Table Matters' Meg Favreau praises her hometown treat, the fish taco.
"Some claim that the fish taco is Southern California's equivalent to Philadelphia's cheesesteak," she writes.
"They're both delicious dishes that evoke a strong sense of place. But I'd argue that the fish taco is rarer and more elusive than the cheesesteak. Rather, tacos in general are Southern California's cheesesteak, and the fish taco is Philadelphia's roast pork sandwich – arguably better than the cheesesteak, but less known and less celebrated."
For you DIY-ers, she offers an updated recipe of the now-classic - adding a squirt of sriracha to the sauce and serving it with a radish salsa.