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Good Taste

New in town, soldier? Should you find yourself on a crisp September morning at a sidewalk table at Parc, the bistro that looks out on Rittenhouse Square - lucky you! - you may find yourself facing, also, a petite dilemma. Parc opens up at 7:30 a.m., and is a tranquil, civilized space to have breakfast. But the menu skews toward Ritten- house prices - Polenta and Eggs Basquaise, $15; Eggs Norwegian, $17; Toasted Bagel with Smoked Salmon, $12. And wait, what's this? Eggs and Soldiers, $4!

Ten-hu! Eggs and Soldiers at Parc in Rittenhouse Square.
Ten-hu! Eggs and Soldiers at Parc in Rittenhouse Square.Read moreAKIRA SUWA

Should you find yourself on a crisp September morning at a sidewalk table at Parc, the bistro that looks out on Rittenhouse Square - lucky you! - you may find yourself facing, also, a petite dilemma. Parc opens up at 7:30 a.m., and is a tranquil, civilized space to have breakfast. But the menu skews toward Rittenhouse prices - Polenta and Eggs Basquaise, $15; Eggs Norwegian, $17; Toasted Bagel with Smoked Salmon, $12. And wait, what's this? Eggs and Soldiers, $4!

It turns out to be a soft-boiled egg, the top of its shell lopped off, with a log fort of batons of brioche toasts stacked to the side. You gently dunk the lightly buttered bread fingers, called mouillettes - literally "soldiers" in French - into the quivering egg.

And there you have it, a lushly gooey morning snack. Which at $4 costs 50 cents less than the cappuccino your friend is sipping. Lucky you!

- Rick Nichols
Eggs and Soldiers, $4, Parc Bistro & Cafe, 227 S. 18th St., 215-545-2262, Parc-Restaurant.com.