Cruising in the Galapagos: Not your typical shipboard adventure

We were strolling along the beach of a tropical island paradise. Suddenly, a whiskered sea lion shuffled out of the water and flopped onto one of the rocks nearby, scattering three completely camouflaged iguanas that lurched onto the sand within inches of our feet. This was no typical shore excursion, this was the Galapagos Islands, and we had a ringside view of whatever Mother Nature chose to display.

The Galapagos are a destination often on the bucket lists of nature lovers. The volcanic island archipelago that straddles the equator in the Pacific Ocean 600 miles west of Ecuador is a living laboratory of flora, fauna, and geology - perfect for those who like to spend hours in search of the perfect zoological specimen.

After taking many cruises to various tropical locales where the shipboard experience is as important as the destination, I was seeking something different. I've been fascinated by the Galapagos ever since I learned about Charles Darwin in high school but wasn't keen to turn my vacation into a scientific sabbatical. Would a Galapagos cruise offer an opportunity for education and enrichment yet still provide the opportunity to relax and recharge?

The Galapagos are far different from most popular cruise destinations. The objective of the Ecuadoran government, which owns the islands, is to preserve the unique ecosystem there. The Galapagos National Park sets strict guidelines on the number of visitors per year, making large ships impractical. Ships that tour the Galapagos are small compared to modern cruise ship standards. The largest vessel regularly seen in these waters, the Silver Galapagos, carries only 100 passengers. Most visitors cruise the islands on "motor yachts," which carry between 16 and 40 passengers.

The national park also dictates which islands can be visited and limits anchorage hours each day. Destinations are changed annually, in order to limit the native wildlife's exposure to outside influences. Further, the national park requires each ship to be staffed with one certified guide for every 16 passengers.

Activities vary by tour operator, although all are informative and stress good ecotourism practices. Some offer more strenuous activities aimed at the adventure traveler. Other cruises focus strictly on photography, scuba diving, or other special interests. My cruise on the Letty, a 20-passenger motor yacht operated by Ecoventura, mixed nature hikes with sea kayaking and snorkeling excursions.

Each of the islands is distinct, ranging from an almost barren chunk of volcanic rock to a lush rain-forest setting. Many species are unique to a single island - even when separated by a strait of water only a half-mile wide. Thus, the marine or "Christmas" iguanas (so called for the red and green coloring they display when mating) of Espanola never socialized with the yellow-orange land iguanas of South Plaza Island.

The most fascinating aspect of visiting the Galapagos is the ability to travel amid unspoiled nature without causing a fuss. The animals basking in their pristine ecosystem do not consider humans natural predators, so we walked among birds and reptiles and sea lions without their giving us a second glance. (Note: this does not mean we can pet or feed them, but if we respect their space, they will largely ignore us and go about their business.)

Each day the yacht anchored off two destinations, one in the morning and one in the late afternoon (the better to avoid the strong equatorial sun). Within a day, we became expert at boarding and disembarking our inflatable dinghy (called a panga), generally jumping out in shallow water to wade to shore. Our two guides, Ceci and Gustavo, both experts on the local flora and fauna, led us on hikes, teaching us about whatever bit of natural wonder happened to cross our path. Ceci was delighted to find a rare Galapagos barn owl peeking out from under a bush one morning.

This proximity to the animals provides excellent photo ops, even for the most amateur photographer. Standing two feet from a blue-footed booby performing a mating dance didn't require fancy lenses or even a tripod. I managed quite well with my simple point-and-shoot.

I wished I had brought along a waterproof camera, which would have been handy while snorkeling. One of the highlights of the trip was swimming in a cove with a group of sea lions. They were unimpressed with our snazzy wetsuits and snorkel masks and largely ignored us - until we splashed in their direction. Then it was "game on" as they dove and jumped and generally swam circles around us. Exhausting, but lots of fun!

Midday was reserved for a large Ecuadoran-style lunch, followed by siesta time. There were no organized onboard activities for a group this small, and most of us used the time to explore the yacht's library, nap, or chat on the covered sun deck. Occasionally while sailing from one destination to the next, the captain would spot some whales or a group of playful dolphins and reroute the boat to trail them for a while. A definite benefit of a small yacht over a large ship.

Evenings were similarly laid-back. Dinners finished with quiet conversation and comparison of photos taken during the day. After a full day of exploring, we were all eager to be well-rested to face the next day's adventure.

By the end of the week, I was relaxed yet invigorated from all I had seen and done. It was a totally different cruise experience, one that showed me a fascinating part of the world and nature. As I look back at the photos, I think this may have been the best cruise yet.