The EU banned a key gel manicure ingredient. Here’s what that means in Philly.
No, gel manicures aren’t banned entirely in Europe. But the EU banning of a specific ingredient used in some polishes this week caused a wave of speculation and concern globally. Here’s what we know.
No, gel manicures aren’t banned entirely throughout Europe.
But an ingredient ban announced by the European Union this week sparked a wave of rumors, misinformation, and even panic that soon extended globally. Philadelphia was no exception.
TikTokers parroted fearmongering language about total bans and “toxic” ingredients without citing sources. On local Facebook groups for women, manicure loyalists asked for advice. Is there a need to switch methods? Or stop entirely?
It’s the latest example of concern surrounding nail and self-care practices. Gel manicures, which require UV light to cure the polish, have been the center of controversy before. Still, experts say a general mani/pedi appointment is not cause for panic.
Here’s what we know.
💅 Did the EU ban gel manicures?
No. The EU banned the use of an ingredient, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, in cosmetic products. The chemical is commonly used in gel nail polishes, as well as sealants, inks, and adhesives, according to NBC.
In turn, gel polishes with that ingredient can no longer be legally sold or used by nail techs in the EU.
But that doesn’t mean there’s an outright ban on manicures. Gel nail polishes with other ingredients are still legal.
And there are plenty.
“Many companies have reformulated and no longer use this chemical in their polish,” Philly-based nail artist Brianna Reifsnyder said.
Several popular gel nail polish brands, including Manucurist, Aprés, OPI, and The GelBottle have TPO-free formulas.
💅 What is TPO and why was it banned?
The chemical is a photoinitiator, meaning it turns liquids solid once cured with UV light. Cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos told Allure it’s a popular ingredient in gel nail polishes because it cures well without yellowing.
The EU, which is notoriously strict when it comes to beauty product regulations, classified the ingredient as “carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction.”
According to NBC, the classification occurred following negative results from studies on rats that were fed high doses of the chemical — a significantly higher exposure rate than what would occur during a routine manicure. Experts say the EU restrictions can help gauge potential risks, but that they may not reflect a real-world situation.
💅 Are gel polishes with TPO banned in the United States?
No. Products containing the ingredient can still be bought, sold, and used in the United States.
No studies have been done on humans regarding the chemical, so the Food and Drug Administration is unlikely to ban the ingredient.
Additionally, there are no outright bans on any nail polish ingredients in the United States, though some ingredients are avoided because of consumer pressures, health risks, or state regulations.
For example, formaldehyde in nail polishes was commonly used for years, dating back to the 1960s. But by the 2010s it was phased out by most major cosmetic brands following consumer pressures over its toxicity. It can still be found in some nail hardeners in low concentrations.
💅 Are gel manicures with TPO safe?
In its announcement of the ingredient ban, the EU said research indicated the ingredient could harm the reproductive system and fertility. But experts point out that there haven’t been studies done regarding the risk of TPO for humans or their fertility.
Experts say there isn’t significant proof that gel nail polish with TPO is dangerous when used properly.
“I understand the responsibility to keep people safe and am in full support of that, but I think the EU needs to be responsible with direct data to support that topically applying the nail polish and curing it has any impact on reproductive health,” cosmetic chemist Amanda Lam told Allure. “It is doing a disservice to consumers to cause fear based on data that does not accurately reflect normal use of cosmetics.”
Reifsnyder, the nail tech, advises consumers to research the brand of gel nail polish they wear or that their techs use if they still feel uneasy.
“Many companies have TPO-free lines within their brand,” she said. “I do not see a reason to cancel your gel polish manicures.”
💅 Are gel manicures safe in general?
Gel manicures are popular for their durability, how quickly they dry, and for preserving natural nail health beneath the coating.
But, because they require UV light to cure the nail polish and because some ingredients in the polishes are considered skin sensitizers, they remain controversial among consumers and health experts.
The American Academy of Dermatology Association warns that some gel manicures can cause nail brittleness as well as increased risk for skin cancer and premature skin aging on the hands. The organization recommends evaluating gel manicure frequency and wearing sunscreen or gloves when getting gel manicures.
Dermatologist Mona Gohara continues to enjoy manicures, she told Allure.
“Simple precautions can make a difference,” she said. “There are reputable gel manicure brands available that do not contain TPO.”