Martha Stewart: What's brown & white & red all over?

Dear Martha: What are the differences among the various colors of bell peppers?

A: All bell peppers are fruits of the same plant, Capsicum annuum. Surprisingly, most start out green. As the peppers mature, they take on more vibrant hues, such as red, yellow, orange, ivory, and even purple. Because the green ones are picked sooner and, as a result, require fewer resources, they are less expensive than their colorful counterparts.

A pepper's sugar content increases as the fruit ripens on the plant, so the green varieties are the least sweet and have a sharp, almost bitter taste. Next come purple, ivory, and chocolate-brown peppers, which are also harvested before they're fully mature. Red, orange, and yellow ones are the sweetest.

Although peppers across the spectrum are rich in vitamins A and C, the warm-toned ones pack the most nutrients. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, a half cup of chopped red bell pepper contains twice as much vitamin C as a medium orange or a half cup of green pepper. Red peppers supply beta-carotene and lycopene; the latter has been shown to protect against certain types of cancer. And orange ones provide lutein and zeaxanthin, which help safeguard the eyes from cataracts and macular degeneration.

Whatever color you prefer, consider buying organic peppers when possible. According to a 2006 report by the Environmental Working Group, bell peppers are among the 12 fruits and vegetables most likely to retain pesticide residue. (For the other 11, visit www.ewg.org.)

Dear Martha: I frequently host outdoor cocktail parties, and I'd like some novel ideas for hors d'oeuvre trays. Do you have any suggestions?

A: We use all kinds of services, from traditional silver trays to more unusual ones. I have a friend who runs a very good catering business, and he has made some beautiful Lucite trays. He applied a layer of transparent glue inside each tray and covered it with dried beans. He then set a second piece of Lucite on top, so the beans won't get dirty from the food. They look very pretty.

My daughter likes very plain and modern things for her decor. For her, we found square wooden trays that are a nice, big size with edges on them, perfect for serving hors d'oeuvres and drinks. We had them powder-coated a gray color to match her home, and they're easy to clean. In a few weeks I'm having a party on a boat, and I want to customize powder-coated trays with the colors of the boat.

You can also cover your trays with hosta or banana leaves and put the food on top of them. The number of surfaces is endless.

Dear Martha: My family will be in Maine in early July. Will there be soft- or hard-shell lobsters at that time? How are they best prepared?

A: Lobsters typically shed their shells from midsummer to early fall. The ones that have just molted have soft, or new, shells and are called shedders. Most likely you're going to have hard-shell lobsters when you get there, and they are just as delicious. You should go to a place that is known for its lobster. Roadside stands are generally the best because they cook them perfectly.

I prefer lobster to be steamed or boiled. Sometimes I steam it first, cut it in half lengthwise, and then put it on the grill, shell side down. I pour some beurre blanc on the meat, and it takes on just the right amount of smokiness.

Dear Martha: I plan to serve tiny, rich desserts for a party. What do you suggest?

A: You can make tasty, small portions of almost any dessert. It's just a matter of being clever. Lemon-meringue tarts would be very good. Make buttery pate brisee crusts an inch and a half across, with a lemony sour curd and a mountain of meringue. You could do parfaits in tall Champagne glasses with layered fruit, ice cream or sorbet. Or make mini baked Alaskas; my favorite is vanilla ice cream, red raspberry ice cream and black raspberry ice cream, all of which is covered with a meringue and baked. *

Questions should be addressed to Ask Martha, care of Letters Department, Martha Stewart Living, 11 W. 42nd St., New York, NY 10036. Questions also may be sent by e-mail to: mslletters@marthastewart.com. Please include your name, address and daytime telephone number.