Martha Stewart: Use convection for a great confection

- think cookies that are evenly baked and roasts that are browned on the outside, juicy on the inside. What's more, foods are ready faster, since the appliances heat them more quickly than traditional ovens. But using one may require tinkering with a recipe's cooking time or temperature, which can make even the most seasoned cook nervous.

Two features make convection ovens heat food faster and more evenly than standard ovens. One is a fan in the rear wall, which circulates warm air around the food. The other is an extra heating element, also at the back. (Although some convection models don't include this additional element, the best ones do; look for a "true convection" oven.)

You can adjust recipes in a couple of ways to work with the appliance's speedier performance. One option is to reduce the cooking temperature by 25 degrees. Or, for dishes that take a long time to cook, such as a holiday turkey, cut the time by 25 to 30 percent.

You'll also want to dispense with kitchenware and techniques that may block the air's movement. Use rimless cookie sheets or low-sided baking pans, and avoid covering meat with foil.

But don't stress over the details. There's good news for those tempted to purchase a convection oven. Many new models include a converting option, which allows cooks to type in the standard time and temperature, as well as the type of dish; the oven adjusts the time and temperature automatically, so you can worry less about the math and stay focused on the meal.

Q: When my mother used to set the table for holiday meals, she placed a "silence cloth" under the tablecloth. Where can I find one?

A: Also referred to as a "silencer," this is a thick, soft fabric that mutes the clanking of plates and cutlery, and shields the table's surface from spills and heat. The covering is usually in a neutral hue, such as white or cream, and often secured with ties to the table legs. Its even surface ensures that a tablecloth lies smoothly and attractively.

While cotton flannel or heavy felt will guard against damage from warm plates, it won't protect against hot serving dishes. For these, trivets are still a good idea.

It's easy to make your own table cover. Silence cloth or similar heavyweight felt can be purchased at specialty fabric stores, and felt won't fray when you cut it, so there's no need for hemming. Just measure the size of your tabletop and cut the fabric to fit. If you like, attach ties to the corners to secure it to table legs.

Q: I want to avoid chemical food dyes. Can I spot them on ingredient labels?

A: Chemical dyes show up in all kinds of foods, and manufacturers like to use them because they provide vivid, consistent results. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration monitors the production of nine synthetic color additives that the agency has deemed safe. Despite these precautions, consumer-advocacy groups have linked two of these dyes, Red 40 and Yellow 6, to hyperactivity in children.

The easiest way to reduce your exposure to chemical coloring is to avoid processed foods; make meals with fresh fruits and vegetables. When buying groceries, check the ingredient labels for these FDA-approved dyes: Blue 1, Blue 2, Green 3, Orange B, Citrus Red 2, Red 3, Red 40, Yellow 5 and Yellow 6. The names may be listed two ways: for example, "Red 40" or "FD&C Red No. 40" (FD&C stands for "food, drug and cosmetics"; it means that the FDA allows the dye's use in those types of items).

Oddly enough, the term "artificial colors" denotes dyes from plants and minerals, not synthetic sources. Two of these ingredients are caramel, used in cola, and annatto extract, derived from a red tropical seed, found in some cheeses.

Questions should be addressed to Ask Martha, care of Letters Department, Martha Stewart Living, 601 West 26th Street, 9th floor, New York, N.Y. 10001. Questions may also be sent by e-mail to: mslletters@marthastewart.com. Please include your name, address and daytime telephone number.