Restaurant Chat: Affordable French bistro dining

Good afternoon, folks, and welcome back to the chat that sates your hunger for Philly food dish. Have you all had something nice for dinner this week? My eating adventures have taken me far afield this week – including my first-ever taste of a Chester County tailgate extravaganza at the Willowdale steeplechase in Kennett Square. I was tempted to kick into reviewer mode myself when seeing all-out nibble displays. But there was already a roving team of natty tailgate judges that looked like they were serious about their tea sandwiches and deviled eggs. So I deferred. That said, my hostess, Janice, did a knock-out display – great smoked salmon-croissant sandwiches and awesome raspberry bars – that won “Best Presentation.” I was most impressed, though, by their painted wheelbarrow packed with an iced-down case of Moet et Chandon White Star. Obviously, Janice’s dog agreed. That’s him, the long-haired Jack Russell terrier in the picture above, lustfully lapping at a Champagne cork. [cont...

Janice tells me White Star’s his favorite “al fresco” Champagne cork, and he’s made a habit of it, thus his name: Corky. Aaah, the life of a horse country hound…%D�ut of course, my hungry friends, there is still a Crumb Tracker quiz today. And a new delivery of books has come in, so past winners may soon expect their prizes! If you guess in order the three places I ate these dishes, you might also join that exclusive list of Crumb Trackers with a signed copy of my book: 1) Barolo-dipped cheeseburger; 2) corn ice cream dusted with chile powder and cinnamon; 3) whole wheat thin-crusted pizza by the inch. Ready, set…start crumbing!

When is the new steakhouse on 7th and chestnut opening...Ibelieve its called union station

Last I heard, Anthony, that place is aiming for a September.

Hello Craig. Lovely picture of Corky. I ate at Tinto last night, liked most dishes very much but really felt most of them were extremely stingy.

Thor - that is the danger of small-plates. They aren't big, even if they're mighty tasty. And they aren't cheap. My solution? Stop sharing them! Either that, or order more. At the very least, I think Tinto puts the kind of effort, ingredient quality and imagination into those plates to make them worthwhile. Portion size is just part of the bargain...

Hey Craig! Just bought my ticket for next month's Great Chefs event at Osteria, a charity gathering for Alex's Lemonade Stand. Not sure if you attend events like this, but I'm pretty psyched to eat food from our local luminaries, not to mention chefs from Avec, Per Se, Frasca, and Pizzeria Bianco (because when would I ever get to Phoenix?!?) Is this a well-known Philly event or did I just luck into it?

Jael - No, I don't ever go to events like this (really, ever), but I do wish I could get a taste of Pizzeria Bianco's pies, which have been touted by many I trust as perhaps the greatest pizza in America. It is definitely a good cause, but I think this is only the second year around for the Osteria event, so I think you're lucky to have learned about it. It isn't the only event in town, of course. I just received notification Phila. Fish and Co's Kevin Meeker of another new fundraiser - Old City Restaurants Cook for Cops - a first-year event on Tuesday, May 20, with a portion of all proceeds taken that evening at each participating restaurant going directly to the fund created for the family of slain police officer Sgt. Stephen Liczbinski. It looks as if about 20 Old City restaurants are participating.

Hello,I wanted to let you know of a fabulous new Japanese Restaurant,To-Kai at 1699 Grant Ave, has been open approximately 2 months. My husband and I have been there 5 times in the past two weeks!The owner is young and hip and has an extensive background.The restaurant is warm while being modern in décor.I wouldn’t expect this in a small shopping center NE Philly! The food is fresh and the portions abundant. The presentation is something to be seen!This restaurant rivals some of the best restaurants in center city and dare I say, NYC! We are really glad to have this restaurant in our neighborhood. I would really like for your food critic to pay a visit to To-Kai to experience this most delightful restaurant and get the word out to the rest of Philly. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me at godscyd@hotmail.com Sincerely, Gina Graziano

Good Japanese in the far Northeast? I'm definitely going to check that out. Thanks for the tip, Gina. One good Northeast sushi spot, Makiman, can't do it all.

We have been to Majolica and Birchrunville on a regular basis for many [http://years.WE] have always had OUTSTANDING meals at both restaurants, as well as outstanding service. We are going to Majolica tonight. Will report back.

Hi Chuck - thanks for this positive report on Majolica, following up as a reply, I believe, to last week's disappointed dispatch from the same Phoenixville restaurant. I've heard fairly consistent reports since my last meal there a few years ago, so it's good to know they haven't completely fallen off in everyone's opinion.

I saw that Kaizan is going to close for a while and reconcept. That hidden space in the Academy house is doomed for rests, the only one that made it for a while was Marabellas.

Yes, Kaizan is kaput, and it didn't take long (a matter of months). They actually put a great deal of work and sleek design into that space, but I suspect it didn't work out for many reasons. Firstly, the kitchen was off. I ate one very disappointing meal there and found the sushi to be boring and poorly prepared, the small plates to be clumsy and expensive. The service friendly, but totally clueless. Add that on to one of the toughest spaces to succeed in the city, and have a recipe for a very short stay. Something has to work in there eventually, I just don't know what it could be. It's sort of a no-man's land between the theater crowd and the Rittenhouse neighborhood.

Hi, Craig! Went to James Friday night and it was spectacular! Everything from the service to the decor to their not jamming people into their beautiful space, the whole team at James deserves a lot of credit. The food was beyond words - both in presentation and taste. It is certainly worth a visit by all true food lovers, especially those interested in trying new, interesting, and tasty things; e.g., stinging nettle tortelli. I'd be interested to read about your next visit. It's worthy of four bells - hands down. Will return in oyster season to try the risotto alla Kristina that you raved about.

MaryRose - I'm glad you enjoyed James, and as you know, it's gotten plenty of love in this chat. But really - four bells? - are you actually Jim and Kristina Burke's aunt?

Craig, any word on John Mims new place downtown Les Bon Temps?

Rocco - It's still a shade early for a real review from me on Les Bon Temps. But I couldn't resist a little scouting meal. I've gotten notes from some readers griping that the menu is too similar to Carmine's, John Mims' constantly moving Creole spot on the Main Line (currently, its third incarnation is still in Bryn Mawr). Yes, there is definitely some cross-over on the menu, from the crawfish spring rolls to crab-smoked gouda tart. But....this one has a very different, very city feel. What a gorgeous room, with the wrought iron balcony and classic tile, I'm glad someone has breathed life back into it. Also, speaking of constantly troubled addresses, I think that 12th street neighborhood (along with all the new action on 13th) finally has the energy to survive. Even more so, I'm glad someone has at last brought a taste of real Creole flavors back into the city. Why should I drive to Jersey or the Main Line for a taste of real gumbo? Stay tuned for more details in a while....

Is that the Cajun influenced place where TPDS or Odeon was??

Yes...

I heard that in the wake of your review on Javier in Haddonfield, the restaurant will be closing shortly. It appears the restaurant is up for rent in June. Can you verify if this is true?

Julia - you're not the first one to tell me this, but as of yet, I don't believe it's a fact. Someone I know in fact just booked a reservation there for June. Hopefully they will survive and turn it around.

CRAIG, WHERE'S A GOOD FRENCH RESTAURANT THAT WON'T BREAK THE BANK? CARL

Carl - I'm sensing a comeback in French bistro cooking, or at least high-end cooking with serious French influence - often at a fair price. In fact, I'm in the midst of reviews of two suburban French spots (can't say where, yet) that are offering excellent prix-fixe value menus right now. (Prix Fixe in general is making a comeback as a recession special). That said, there are a few low-key spots in the city that consistently do pretty good French bistro fare at reasonable prices - Bistro St. Tropez in the Market Place Design Center (I like lunch there, best), Vintage Wine bar at 13th and Sansom (really casual, but with some good French classics). Caribou has its moments, but is inconsistent. Zinc bistro a vins, formerly La Boheme on 11th street, is an adorable little boite, but I didn't love my food there -- still, I want to go back. Coquette has possibilities, and Cochon, the BYO in Queen Village, is really doing some good stuff much discussed here.

I recently had a great french bistro style dinner at Coquette on Bainbridge, we got tons of wine, appetizers and entrees and still made it for $45 per person....also, what about la campagne in cherry hill for affordable french?

Glad to hear you had a nice meal at Coquette. I thought it was pretty good, but a little inconsistent, so it's nice to hear they're still doing well. GREAT oysters, for sure. As for La Campagne, I haven't been in years, but remember it more as a special event kind of place than a bargain destination.

Craig, I visited Savona based on your mention of their fries in a recent chat. GREAT meal, but the fries, I don't know, I didn't taste the 3 day prep. I really wonder whether improving on the Belgian method of double frying is a fool's errand.

Jay - did you go to SAVONA in Gulph Mills, or SOVANA in Kennett Square? I love them both, but it's the one in Kennett Square that is fanatical about its frites....

I love the duck confit in the duck salad form Standard Tap. Best since Mozart Cafe in Paris IMHO

I agree, Michael. That duck confit is outstanding, and definitely one of the signature dishes that set the tap apart from the beginning as a bar kitchen that knew what it was doing.

Hi Craig: I'm having dinner at Bistro 7 in Old City next week and was just wondering if you've been and had any thoughts on it. Thanks!

Kooshan - I haven't had a chance to get back to Bistro 7 since my review a few years ago (revisits are so, so hard when you're already eating out 8-10 times a week for current assignments). I liked it, generally, but wasn't over the moon. It placed a good focus on fresh local seasonal ingredients, but the cooking didn't seem distinctive enough to separate itself from the large 2-bell pack. Still, Bistro 7 is one BYO that has cultivated what seems to me to be a growing admiration from readers and friends, which is nice - perhaps the chef has really settled in? The owner is apparently in the works of opening a second place, so I'll certainly be taking a closer, more current look. I'll be curious, Kooshan, to hear your report.

I made duck confit once...I rendered the duck fat myself....never again...i will let the Tap do that for me.

Michael - Duck fat is a wonderous thing, great for cooking anythign from meat to potatoes. But it is expensive, and unless you're cooking lots of ducks, it can be a chore to render enough fat for a confit bath. No wonder the French save theirs in ceramic crocks for reuse. The more confits you make, the better the fat tastes (and cooks!) I'd be curious to know if anyone out there has a good source for reasonably priced tubs of duck fat?

Best place for a turkey burger in the city?

Funny you should ask, Mikey, because I ate 3 or 4 different turkey burgers last week. I don't know what got into me. A rare fit of health-consciousness-meets-burger craving? The best of these - by far - were the turkey burgers with caramelized onions I bought and cooked myself from Griggstown Farms at the Headhouse Farmer's Market. These are a family favorite - the grind is just right (not too small), and they are so moist when you cook them (thank you, onions!). Put them on one of the brioche buns they sell at Wild Flour at the other end of the market and you're all set. As far as restaurant versions go, I think the Sabrina's on Callowhill does an excellent job with theirs (their beef burgers are also great). I got mine with Swiss and a spicy smear of their pureed poblano pepper spread. It was big and - dare I say - beefy?

hi craig, not a big thai fan, but going out with a friend later in the week. any good suggestions east of broad. maybe chinatown? second, with the flyers and phillies always playing games in the 7pm timeframe, where are your favorite places to eat and catch a game?

Czoldcity - you ask too many questions in one breath, but I will try to answer. Best Thai east of Broad? That's easy (since we have so few good ones in the entire city) - Siam Lotus on the 900 block of Spring Garden, next to the gun range. Taht actually might be a convenient place before the game, because you can shoot right down Spring Garden to Columbus and south. If you want to eat closer to the stadiums, you've got so many choices. Today, I"m just going to pick one - the South Philly Tap Room at 1509 Mifflin. They've got a gastropub menu that tries hard without getting too involved (wild boar burritos), and the list of craft brews is very hard to beat that close to the stadium. You will really be suffering for local beers once you get there, at least if you're going to the Wachovia. (Citizens park actually has good brews...)

Craig, For the CT quiz, are they - 1)Davio's, 2)La Michoacana, 3)tough one...still working on it

MaryRose5680 - you have gotten dangerously close, and nailed two, but time is ticking....I'll give you until 3:03....

Yes, the Barolo-dipped burger was at Davio's. I have to say, I was a little disappointed by this one. Good big burger, but the "dip" was more like a very intense dark au jus stain on the bun, which was too big for the burger. The overall effect was salty, rather than winey. But it's a good idea, one worth refining. Number 2 is La Michoacana, the darling Mexican ice cream shop in Kennett Square that turns 5 years old next month. They make their own, and have a wonderful selection of exotic flavors from mamey to guava and cream and the corn flavored scoop that I just loved. It was like a sweet and cold corn pudding, and with a shake of chile spice, my mouth was alight with a wonderful sweet and spicy tingle. This is definitely worth a stop for anyone spending a sunny weekend touring horse country or the Brandywine wine trail.

3) Osteria??

craig, yes, sovana. Darnit, like your review says, there are too many similar sounding names, Savona, Sovalo,

Sovana. Sovana was great, but the fries not as much...

Jay - well at least we're talking about the same place. I'm not surpised, necessarily. I last ate fries there two years ago, and a good fry can go limp in a lot shorter time than that. The quest for the great frite continues....

No, No. 3 was definitely not at Osteria. In the interest of talking about some of the 800 other restaurants in this region from time to time, I've put a temporary ban on Osteria's food for mention in the Crumb Tracker quiz (that narrows it down a bit, right). This last and final tracker clue - now expired for prize purposes - was eaten at a relatively new Newtown branch of Jules Thin Crust, the growing chain out of Doylestown. These unusual pies stretch like giant pizza carpets down long paddles (slices of which are cut off in about 3-inch increments)- and the micro-thin crusts are topped with light, largely organic ingredients. I would not claim them to be the revelation I hoped they'd be (my combos weren't quite right), but in the context of chain pizza, these are definitely worth paying attention to. I understand branches are soon to open in Jenkintown and Chestnut Hill.

On that note, I'd say this chat has developed a perfect crust. Time to turn off the online oven, and pull the plug until next week. Thanks to everyone for joining in with great questions. I'll be back next Tuesday, same time, same URL, different menu as always. By then, I suspect Corky may have devoured more than his share of good vintage Champagne corks. May all of you be just as lucky as the pooch. In the meanwhile, be well and eat something worth bragging about!