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Restaurant Chat: Sidewalk dining, restaurant music and fugu

Craig:

Good afternoon, my hungry friends, and welcome back to the Philly food chat-a-rama. What’s been feeding you this week? I’ve been busy, as usual, but have a few special (and not-so special) meals I’d like to tell you about, cued to this week’s Crumb Tracker quiz. Guess in order which three places I ate these dishes, and win a signed copy of my book: 1) venison pizza with lime crema and truffles (and a view); 2) Valdeon-stuffed dates wrapped in bacon; 3) raw kitfo. Ready, set…start crumbing!

Collin:

Hi Craig - I was wondering if you know of any area restaurants that serve fugu?

Craig:

That's a real rarity, Collin, as so few Japanese chefs really know how to prepare blowfish without activating its deadly toxins. (Anyone remember the Simpson episode where Homer orders his fugu just at the moment the master sushi chef decides to take a smoke break?) That one stuck with me. But if I saw them behind the sushi bar, I would definitely let Matt Ito at Fuji in Haddonfield cook me fugu (apparently the bones make a zinger of a broth, too), and of course, Morimoto. Otherwise, there are a lot of sushi chefs out there right now that I wouldn't let cut me a piece of tuna - so choose wisely....

Robert:

Craig, I had a discussion with a group of friends this weekend on how important good music is while dining. Some agreed and some claimed if the food was good enough they would not care. What role do you think music has an a memorable and enjoyable dining experience?

Craig:

Robert - There are rare cases when I think a bad music choice can really hurt a meal. One is where it's just too loud (Rouge used to always blare its radio). The other is where the music is so cheesy, it reflects poorly on a restaurateurs taste as much as bad wall paper and art. (See my comments this Sunday on the music choices at Misso, which I believe were brought up already in this chat). On the other hand, I do think that a great musical soundtrack can really add to the mood of a place. I recall Xochitl having a good music selection that went far beyond the usual Gypsy Kings world music stuff you'll find at Latin-esque places. Also, I really thought the soundtrack for Jim Jarmusch's Broken Flowers provided just the right exotic-yet-modern background for my lunch today at an Ethiopian cafe - Crumb Tracker #3. You want that music to fit with the theme of the restaurant - but you don't want it to be kitschy. Anyone out there want to nominate the best music restaurants?

MaryRose5680:

Hi, Craig. You are certainly the food critic authority here in Philadelphia and its surrounding areas, but have you thought about writing a special travel piece? With summertime - vacation time for many - approaching, it would be interesting reading to get your take on places in New York, Boston, New York, Miami, the Bahamas, London, Hawaii, you name it. I think it would make for a great addition to either the Travel, Image, or Food sections.

Craig:

MaryRose5680 - I couldn't agree with you more!! I definitely need to check out London and Hawaii, but I think NYC is more likely. And by the way, don't you consider my annual Jersey Shore outing a journey to the exotic? Fortunately, Philadelphia has kept me plenty busy, so it's hard to get away. But let me pass this note onto the budget bosses here, and stay tuned for Craig's great adventure...

Adam:

#1 was at the sixers or flyers game, center grille, #2 tinto, #3 Almaz

Todd:

Tracker #3- Dhalak

Todd:

Tracker #1- Rae #2- Chick's?

Craig:

Those are good guesses, Todd and Adam. Todd got number 2: Chick's Wine Bar & Cafe is a great small plate and drinking spot in Bella Vista. Nicely rehabbed taproom with lots of pressed tin. I haven't had a chance to eat through as much of the menu as I'd like, but those bacon wrapped dates stuffed with blue cheese are a new addiction - the smoky crisp bacon shell giving way to sweet date, and then, finally, the molten salty cream of blue cheese. That said, Chick's best asset is certainly its bar, which has one of the best-rounded selections of wines by the glass, beers and cocktails in town. Cocktails made with house-brewed ginger beer. An entire selection of craft Italian beers (though they're rather expensive. Still, this one is worth checking out for a grown-up nibble before you go cruising South Street with the youngsters.....

Greg:

raes, chick's cafe and abyssinia?

MaryRose5680:

#3 Abysinnia?

Craig:

Also good guesses, but as far as #1 goes, Adam has nailed it. I had the opportunity to eat at the Cadillac Grille before Friday night's Sixers-Pistons playoff matchup, mostly because my ticket benefactor touted the grill as "less bad" than its predecessor. I'd been to that one, and still have bad flavor flashbacks. So I couldn't resist checking out Aramark's latest attempt at an upscale chophouse overlooking the court (or rink, depending on your sport). I have to say the opening dishes were impressive - a Morroccan lamb and chickpea stew and a grilled pita pizza topped with a carpaccio of seared venison and lots of truffles. That was surprising. But then, of course, all the new chef's creativity folded when we got to the outrageously priced entrees like the struggling Pistons' shot percentage (which hit the dumpster). The $38 rib eye was so awfully mediocre (and overcooked) for the price, I started to wish we hadn't bypassed the hoagies for this phony upscale dinner..(continued)

Craig:

My halibut entree was puny and fishily ripe, and even came with baby canned cor (for $32!). I was not surprised by the overpriced wine list, so I avoided that altogether, only to discover that the Wachovia does not have a SINGLE local beer on tap. Outrageous! With so many great local beers on tap at Citizens Bank Park, they should reconsider. At least the Sixers gave the fans (Friday) something for their good money.

Adam:

I used to work at Gayle. Not sure how the music is since I've been gone but we had a fantastic soundtrack there. Lots of good blues, jazz, classic rock,funk, jam band stuff..

Craig:

Thanks for the disclaimer Adam (I wish all restaurant employees would be honest enough to do the same here), but I agree that Gayle has a nice groove.

Jamie:

Hi Craig- I'm running out of new coffee places. Any directions?

Craig:

Jamie - where are you hoping to caffeinate?

Anne:

#3 kaffa crossing?

Craig:

Great guess, Anne - you've won this week's Crumb Tracker! Yes, I was recently at Kaffa Crossing, which is a bit different from your run-of-the-mill West Philly Ethiopian joint. It's more of a coffee shop from the look of it, quite pleasant inside. And the food was extremely well-prepared - nice and fresh flavors that each tasted distinct on the platters of spongy njira bread. Loved the spice lentil puree, the chopped greens, and yellow peas. But the kitfo was my favorite - a mound of brilliant red minced raw beef that was seasoned with a lemony butter and a lingering spice. I have had a similar version of this at Abyssinia, which was seasoned a little more vividly. But I liked the freshness of this version, too, and the space is more enjoyable. "LJM" also guessed this right, but Anne got it first, so please email me your mailing info at claban@phillynews.com

czoldcity:

hi craig, love the chats and your weekly reviews. i know phila. mag does a "best of philly" for different types of food, but i find this is more of a nod to there advertisers. have you ever thought of putting out a best of... like best wings go here. best bbq shrimp is here, etc...

Craig:

Czoldcity - "Best of" lists are a staple of city magazines around the country, and they're mostly great for marketing and pr. Personally, I take these food topics individually and topics on their own, which allows us to look at the subjects more in depth. Plus, choosing a "best" is sometimes a false premise - there are usually so many great and different versions of a cheesesteak or a hoagie or a whole branzino that choosing one is really doing a disservice to readers. Of course, it gets people talking.

Jamie:

I live in Manayunk, but work in Conshohocken. Work takes me all over though.

Craig:

Jamie - When in Manayunk, I'd probably stop by La Colombe, though I'm sure there are probably other good cups to be had there, too. As for Conshy, I have no idea. I'd take some chatter feedback here...

Greg:

Craig, certainly enjoy reading your chats and articles for new places to go, many thanks for those! since spring is here, any recommendations for outdoor/sidewalk dining?

Craig:

That's a good question, Greg, as our window for really pleasant outdoor dining (before the summer swelter gets unbearable) is not as long as I'd like. The first place that comes to mind is the big, beautiful terrace out in front of Le Virtu, the great new Italian on East Passyunk that I just reviewed a month or so ago. Almost every place has sidewalk dining now, though, if they're close enough to a busy street, I find it more like eating car exhaust than anything. Two great outdoor spaces I wish were better used: the patio behind the Art Alliance (the old Opus has a new occupant, but I have no idea how it is), and the grand patio beside the Mexican Post at the base of the Ben Franklin Parkway. What a great spot to drink margaritas, in theory, but the shabby Tex-Mex menu there recalls the chimichanga offenses of a non-corporate ChiChi's.

czoldcity:

hi craig, thanks for the response. my music choice, the old school rap at north 3rd

Craig:

Yes, and what a great fit for the gastropub. Standard Tap's jukebox is also rightfully renowned...

jamie:

I've been finding La Colombe a bit too stuffy for me lately. Depending on how late I'm running, it's been either Mugshots on Main St. or Spoons on Ridge.

Craig:

I can understand that, Jamie, as even La Colombe now has become so familiar it seems like old hat. Still, they brew some of the most reliable coffee in town. I did not know about the Mugshots in Manayunk - thanks for that tip! - but I love their cafe in Fairmount across from the prison - it's the most comfortable neighborhood hang-out cafe I can think of around town. And the Fair Trade Bolivian coffee they serve is pretty good, too. AS for Spoons, up in Roxborough, that is a REGULAR stop of mine as I'm driving Ridge Avenue back to Center City from Forbidden Drive or the 309 corridor. The strip mall space is not much for ambiance, but I give them a ton of credit for bringing good coffee (Kimberton?) to one of Philly's more blue collar 'burgs. Now, for the Northeast? Any ideas?

czoldcity:

good dog also has a great selection of rock, hip hop and alternative... wed night half price cans too!

Craig:

Yes, that's true also, but basically, any gastropub without a good jukebox is probably not worth a visit, though I suspect some are definitely better than others. Thanks also for mentioning the can special - I've become quite fond of Sly Fox's Pikeland Pils, which is one of the best examples around of why the resurgence in canned beer (with specially coated cans that prevent the metallic taste) has a real chance to be the next big thing. That is a seriously quaffable summer beer.

Kenso:

Craig, I am looking for a kid friendly, brunch place that can handle large parties in the Conchy or Manayunk areas, any thoughts?

Craig:

Kenso - that old Manayunk standard, Le Bus, might be worth checking out.

Marty West:

Coated cans are the way to go. Light is beers nemesis so a light brown/green bottle is about the worst container to store beer in.

czoldcity:

hi craig, wed night is a lot of fun. my friends and i have a contest to see who can finish all the cans. put on a fake mustache and join us sometime at the bar!

jamie:

I used to live in the Northeast! I remember a place on Frankford Ave. in Mayfair that was pretty good. I think it was called Coffee Connection(?)

Craig:

I'll have to check that one out. On that note, I'm going to call this chat perfectly brewed. Thanks to everyone who showed up today with good questions. I'll be back next week, same time, same internet destination. Until then, meanwhile, may you all be well and eat something worth bragging about!