Restaurant Chat: Marlton/Medford restaurant scene and steak at the shore

Good afternoon, friends, and welcome to the Philly food chat that chews back. The LaBan Live Grill(ing) is open, and I'm eager to put your best food questions to the fire and see how they sizzle. But first, I'm hoping we're going to find someone - SOMEONE!! - who is hungry enough to snag this week's Crumb Tracker award. I've had an interesting few days of worldwide eats, as you can tell from this week's clues. Guess all three places I ate in order, and you'll win a signed copy of my book: 1) soft-shell crabs fried in a crust of pink sweet rice; 2) pizza topped with tomatillo salsa verde, pulled chicken and cilantro; 3) an Ethiopian fresh-roasted coffee ceremony. Ready, set...start crumbing!

I wanted to remind everyone that any restaurant reports - especially gripes - must be signed by your full name. And if you have a complaint, please be specific! Good words are also welcome. Of course.

hey Craig..I am not sure if you have heard or read anything about this really good little restaurant in Medford NJ named Ted`s on Main but you should check it out..food and service are very good..my husband and I just love the place and so does the rest of the Medford area!

Hi Karen - welcome to the chat and thanks for the tip on Ted's. I understand the chef used to work at Striped Bass at some point, and I've been hearing some pretty nice things. But Medford's a hike. Can you give us any specifics as to what you liked that might entice us to drive out to the edge of the Pinelands? (Other than an afternoon of pick-your-own berries at Johnson's Corner)

I'm not going to attempt the crumb tracker quiz, but the pizza (no. 2) sounds delicious. I just made a tomatillo salsa and chicken dish this weekend, so I'll be looking for the answer on this one. Q: How often do you re-review restaurants? The Wilmington restaurant scene hasn't exploded like in Philly; evolved is more like it.

Nancy - that pizza was very good, the salsa had a good spicy tang and really moistened the meat (I so often find chicken on pizzas is like eating cardboard). The fresh cilantro was nice touch. Really fresh. As for your re-review question, I don't give restaurants full, rated re-reviews that often, not unless some big change has occurred and the restaurant is an institution. There are simply too many new places that deserve to be considered a first time that re-reviews are reserved for special situations. I do occasionally check back in on the 4-bellers (there's only a handful) to make sure they're holding steady. Sometimes an old favorite (like Fuji in Haddonfield, which gets its review in a couple weeks) moves to a new location that needs to be visited. However, I do often revisit restaurants for smaller capsule reviews in the Or Try These sidebar. Also, at year's end, I always revisit five or so restaurants that were sort of on the fence for improvement (or decline.) Wilmington....

well..you are right [the Ted's on Main chef] worked at Striped Bass a while ago plus he worked in New Orleans as well as the Bahamas.I guess what we like the best is the freshness of all of the ingredients he uses..he uses a good amount of local produce and scallops from Barnegat Light (served over butternut squash risotto,which is to die for!) We just love the decor and the friendliness of the staff..everything is made from scratch which is a breath of fresh air compared to all of the pre-fab chain restaurant junk found around the south jersey area

Karen - thanks for more details on Ted's. I agree with you, though, that the Medford/Marlton area seems to be a nexus of chain restaurants. I was very sad when the Red Hen closed in Medford a few years ago, because it was such a bright spot of thoughtful homecooking (of the Eastern European paprikash sort) in a sea of pre-fab food. I'll have to put Ted's on my list.

I read that Moorestown is thinking about getting a liquor license to attract restaurants. Do you believe a town without liquor can never hope to attract the top chefs?

Curious M: You ask a very good question. Obviously the BYO movement is the ultimate retort to that, as many talented young chefs have taken the plunge in dry towns like Collingswood, which have become a vibrant restaurant center. Why Moorestown hasn't become that I don't know. In fact, I can't think of a single place to eat in Moorestown. I'd say Tacconelli's, since it's across from the Moorestown Mall, but that's Maple Shade. Either way, with the kind of money people pay for liquor licenses in Jersey (half-million $-plus) we're not talking about "great chefs", we're talking about mega-buck chain restaurants. There could be a happy medium. But Personally, I'd rather have the BYOs.

Hi Craig. It's been a while but wanted to compliment your review of Tinto. I visited a few days before the review came out and had an outstanding meal. As in other tapas-type restaurants, I found the best meal to be had at the bar because I could order as I was hungry and had the full attention of the, albeit busy, bartender. Regarding the crumbtracker--did you go to Banana Leaf, Mama Palma and Dahlak?

Welcome back, Zoe, and thanks for taking a stab at the Crumb Tracker - even if you missed all three. I appreciate the kind word on my Tinto review. With food like that, and a chef like Jose Garces to write about, I simply had great material to work with. My biggest complaint about Tinto is the comfort of the restaurant. It's so narrow and jam-packed, and I usually find tall tables uncomfortable for a long meal. No wonder the bar is a better bet. I imagine it feels slightly less crowded. Things should ease up a bit when Tinto expands into the room next door this fall (?).

Craig Have you checked out the new big farmer's market at Headhouse square? Lots of great farmers this past Sunday. It is worth the trip just for the chicken-extremely fresh (not frozen) and none of that chemical taste you get from the mass produced birds,

PJ - funny you should mention it, but I was driving past Head House Square last Sunday and saw so many white tents, that I almost stopped and made my kids late for a birthday party! It looked so bountiful compared to the anemic one that has just refused to blossom on Rittenhouse Square. I'm definitely going to visit this market shortly. Not that I haven't found some very good produce (wonderful peaches, sweet lima beans, gorgeous wild flowers) at Rittenhouse, but I am miffed that it hasn't grown into the premier farm market of Philadelphia. But four tents is just not enough. And some of my favorites from last year are gone. Maybe Head House is becoming out answer to Union Square?

Hi Craig, have you been to Bistro Juliana in Fishtown yet? I was there last week, and we had pasta with crabmeat and grilled branzino filleted tableside that was good enough to make you cry. Fresh, simple, delicious. Desserts just passable, but inexpensive. Service, charming but slightly tentative.

Debbie - thanks so much for the report on Juliana. I've been scouting all those new offerings north of Girard and Juliana's on my list. I understand the Radicchio folks are behind it, and they make nice restaurants for the price - great whole fish at fair prices, pastas that have a really authentic touch. The owner, Luigi Basile, who also has Laceno in South Jersey, specializes in making off-track locations sing. I look forward to checking this one out.

Craig - I love a great steak. Did you happen to try Voodoo steak house on LBI during your trip to the shore? I rate it very good - especially for the shore - but expect city prices. Also, last time I was in New Orleans we went to Mr. John's where I had one of the best NY strips in my life. Bring back any fond memories of the Big Easy?

Patrick - I've seen Voodoo, poked my head in, looked at the menu, and passed on it a couple years running. It has a nice casually stylish look, but the steaks are incredibly pricey and frankly, I'm generally trying to eat on the lighter side down the shore, with more of a focus on seafood. There are plenty of good steakhouses in AC if you're dying for a slab o' beef down the shore - the Knife and Fork, Bobby Flay's, Gallagher's, and all those big name casino chains. Then again, I could really be missing out carnivore heaven here and need to put Voodoo on next year's go-list. Anyone want to persuade me?

I`m sure you won`t be disappointed with Ted`s Craig..hopefully he will have the Ribeye Steak special when you are there..it was served with a grilled jersey tomato stuffed with fresh mozzarella and basil..along with a smoke jalapeno jersey corn relish..it was the bomb!..take care!

Ok. I think I get it. Karen really likes Ted's.

Craig, I have heard about this new bar on christian? I think you need a review on it. Is it any good?

Karens real name is Ted.

Now, Marty. Let's not jump to conclusions here. I'm the one that asked for details...

Brittany - can you be more specific? Christian is a long street with more than few bars on it. Are we talking east side, or west side?

: No answer on the crumb tracker yet? The pizza sounds like something Pizza by Elizabeths in Greenville (DE) would serve, but I haven't been in awhile.

Nancy H: No. We've had very few attempts, even, at this week's Crumb Tracker. I must be eating on the edge, then, if no one can even guess!

Craig...After your chat last week I checked out the Foodery on 10th and Pine. Wow. What a selection! A little pricey but totally worth the trip.

Yes, Marty, the Foodery is the real deal. In fact, I was just at their Northern Liberties outpost this weekend buying a mix-six for a picnic (with the tomatillo chicken pizza I'd purchased nearby) that we took to the wonderful park off Third Street behind Kaplan's New Model bakery there, where the smell of freshly baking rye bread fills the air. Heaven!

hey Marty..I don`t think Ted has given birth to 3 children..thank you!

Debbie: We'll look forward to seeing you in Fishtown! I'm hoping to check out Modo Mio this week. I've been hearing great things.

Hopefully you won't "see" me, Debbie, even if I'm sitting right there across the room!

I think its the west side. I know its in the 20's. I had a friend tell me that they had good food there.

Brittany - I believe you're talking about the Sidecar Cafe, at 22nd and Christian. It's actually a couple years old, and a real pioneer in gentrifying the G-Ho neighborhood, which continues to acquire new stuff. (Yello'Bar across from the Naval Home is the latest). I liked the IDEA and ambition of Sidecar better than the food when I reviewed it when it was new. But I understand that a newer chef there has given the kitchen some serious ambition with lots of homemade sausages, etc. My colleague, Michael Klein, recently wrote a favorable little mention in the "GoodTaste" feature of a recent Thursday Food section. That might be a good reason for me to revisit, too.

Thanks everybody for another great chat. We started off slow, with a few technical glitches, but it really picked up. Even if no one nailed the Crumb Tracker. At least we know Karen isn't Ted. Another great culinary mystery solved! Until next week, then, may you all be well and eat something worth bragging about!