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On Farne Islands in North Sea, feathered friends rule the roost

The first time we visited the Farne Islands in the North Sea six years ago, we saw puffins and terns, and enjoyed sunshine and a calm crossing. On the journey home, Geoff, grandfather of my partner, Matthew, and the chief twitcher in the family, advised: "Don't ever come back. . . . You will never have a day as good as this again."

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