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Craig LaBan Review: Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran’s latest, Jamonera

It may come as no surprise that the Spanish world of competitive ham-slicing has long been a manly art. At least it was until last spring, when Lourdes Corbacho became the first woman cortador to ever be crowned Spain’s national ham-cutting champ. If the platter laden with Iberico de Bellota ham set before me recently at Jamonera was any indication, its papered wooden board covered with a cured-pig mosaic of crimson ham chips laced with creamy fat, Corbacho’s influence has made its way to Philly in the best way.

That ham is at the heart of  “judias verdes,” beneath a angle of pea tendrils, fava beans, crunchy torn-bread croutons, and sheep’s milk ricotta touched with lemon and mint.
That ham is at the heart of “judias verdes,” beneath a angle of pea tendrils, fava beans, crunchy torn-bread croutons, and sheep’s milk ricotta touched with lemon and mint.Read more
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