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Is the dining world ready to pluck wrinkled brown mushrooms off a mossy branch? How about a crispy chip of fried poultry skin (dabbed with two-year-old fermented mole) perched on a wiry mesh of chicken wire? Or maybe a premeal quail egg, cured in wine lees and smoked, then brought tableside nestled inside a baby bird's nest?
by Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic | Columnist Updated Nov. 22, 2015, 3:01 a.m. ET
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