A lush Argentine malbec is worth a few extra dollars

One of the most distinctive aspects of Argentina’s wine culture is its fierce loyalty to obscure grapes like malbec, that have little track record for quality in their native region. When European grapes were first introduced to new continents, the initial varieties planted were typically selected more for ease of cultivation than for quality potential. By the late 19th century, different so-called “workhorse grapes” each dominated in their zone: shiraz in Australia, zinfandel in California, and pinotage in South Africa. As these emerging wine regions matured, ambitious vintners naturally imitated the world’s top wines of the time, French Burgundy and Bordeaux, embracing chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot for their finest wines.

Meanwhile, Argentina took a different path. Like in so many other nations, a variety of practical, high-yielding grapes had been introduced early on and three had proven suitable to the Mendoza province’s unique terrain and climate: malbec, torrontes and bonarda. However, when other regions began to plant more “noble” grapes in a bid to improve quality and compete in the global market, Argentina chose instead to look inward. Argentine vintners certainly improved the quality of their wines, but they stuck by their workhorse varieties, most notably the red malbec, and made little effort to export their wine. It took decades for the world to discover the joys of Argentina’s dense, lush malbecs, in part because the grape had little name recognition and hardly any track record for quality in its native France. Now, American wine stores are awash in entry-level malbecs, but it’s well worth spending a few dollars more to drink wines of greater distinction, like this lovely example. Made by one of the original consulting winemakers to help introduce malbec to a global audience, it is their less oaky entry-level cuvée. Less grapey or jammy than many competitors, this wine offers a more savory, earthy flavor profile that adds roasted root vegetables to malbec’s classic black cherry and blueberry flavors and makes a terrific partner for anything served with a tomato sauce.

$15.99; 14.1% alcohol

PLCB Item #5121, sale price through Oct. 3— regularly $17.99.

Also available at: Joe Canal’s in Lawrenceville, N.J. — $15.99, lawrenceville.jcanals.com; Kreston Wine & Spirits in Wilmington — $18.99. krestonwines.com; Traino’s Wine & Spirits in Mount Laurel and Voorhees— $18.99, trainoswine.com.