This affordable pinot gris has the luxe of Alsace

California dominates American winemaking, producing four out of every five bottles made. In fact, California would be the world’s fifth-largest wine producer if it were to secede and become its own nation. The state of Washington may come in a distant second in terms of American wine volume, but is definitely turning heads with the quality of its wines and giving Golden State winemakers a run for their money. What is less apparent is how thoroughly Washington winemaking is dominated by Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, which produces three out of every five bottles made in Washington. Their skill at making truly excellent wines for the dollar, like this juicy pinot gris, has been central to their success.

The popular perception of the Pacific Northwest as a cool, coastal wine region has been embraced by Chateau Ste. Michelle for decades. Recognizing the need for wine tourism to build their brand, the winery and tasting room were established in Woodinville, on the fringe of hipster Seattle’s metropolitan area. As such, the public face of the winery came to be associated with the lush, green landscape of the “wet” western side of the Cascade mountains, despite the fact that almost all of its grapes were grown on the “dry” eastern side, closer to the dusty cow town of Walla Walla. Here, it is the cold desert nights of the Columbia Plateau that allow white wine grapes to retain brisk acidity, not cool ocean breezes, and the affordability of arid farmland compared to coastal real estate helps explain the exceptionally fair prices of Columbia Valley wines like this one. Stylistically, it is neither as delicate as an Italian pinot grigio nor as decadent as a French pinot gris from Alsace. Beautifully balanced and bracingly dry, this pinot gris tastes of ripe cantaloupe and candied lemon. Try it with salads and seafood for a true taste of Washington state.

$12.99; 13% alcohol

PLCB Item #97019

Sale price through Oct. 2, regularly $14.99.

Also available at: Kreston Wine & Spirits in Wilmington, $9.88, krestonwines.com; Total Wine & More in Wilmington, $9.97, totalwine.com; and Canal’s Bottlestop in Marlton, $9.96, canalswine.com.