Ocean currents give this $19 chardonnay its refreshing terroir

The world’s finest vineyards have something in common. Whether they are in a warm or cool region, a consistent feature of the very finest terroirs for winemaking an unusually big drop in temperature overnight. In climate studies, the difference measured between a daytime high and nighttime low within a single day is known as “diurnal swing.” A number of factors can influence a region’s diurnal swing, the most common being cool ocean breezes, clear desert skies, or prevailing winds.

Sunshine is essential for making great wine, of course. Fruit needs ample sunlight and warmth by day to ripen, since photosynthesis is the process that produces sugar, flavor, and color in the grapes. However, if ripening proceeds too quickly, fruit will lose the backbone of acidity that is essential for wine’s refreshment and food-friendliness. Cold nights act like a refrigerator for winemakers, preserving fruit freshness and acidity as grapes ripen and boosting wine’s quality potential in the process.

A dramatic illustration of this effect is available in California’s Russian River Valley, a region known for growing cool-climate grapes like chardonnay and pinot noir. Here, unusually cold ocean currents cause a nightly blanket of fog in the growing season that chills the vines and slows their grapes’ rush to ripeness, extending hang time on the vine. The result is sumptuous wines like this one that feature both richness and balancing refreshment. In the glass, this manifests as simultaneous flavors of crisp, fresh green apples and buttery baked apple cake. Try it with grilled salmon or fried shrimp for a real treat.

$18.99; 14% alcohol

PLCB Item # 98749

Sale price through July 31 – regularly $21.99

Also available at:

Gloucester City Bottlestop in Gloucester City, $13.94, bottlestopnj.com; Canal’s Bottlestop in Marlton, $14.49, canalswine.com; and Kreston Wine & Spirits in Wilmington, $15.99, krestonwines.com.