How merlot became the dominant grape in Bordeaux red wines

Red wines from Bordeaux, France, are strongly associated with the cabernet sauvignon grape, the dominant component in the region’s most famous and expensive wines. However, the vast majority of Bordeaux’s red wines are neither famous nor expensive, and few contain much cabernet sauvignon at all. Most Bordeaux wines are red blends where merlot is the primary grape, typically accounting for at least two-thirds of the volume, as with this modestly priced Bordeaux Supérieur that overperforms for the dollar.

Here in the United States, merlot is widely considered an inferior grape, tarred with a reputation for making one-dimensional, overly fruity, or “unserious” wines. This perception has little basis in fact, though.

Yes, merlot is more cost effective to grow, but the varietal’s vines outnumber those of cabernet sauvignon in Bordeaux 3 to 1 because merlot is simply better-suited to the region’s cool and moist climate. Merlot ripens weeks earlier and is therefore considerably less susceptible to weather-driven crop failure.

Merlot wines may not be as dark in color or as assertive in flavor as cabernet sauvignon wines when made with the same methods. But, when all else is equal, merlots are less harshly astringent and considerably more generous in mouthfeel.

This wine is an example of a value-oriented merlot blend made by a vintner who is better known for his high-end cabernet sauvignon-based wine. Its flavor profile features both black and red fruits, such as blackberry and pomegranate, in the classic French style. It’s tangy, not at all sweet, and has a touch of bitterness, like those found in the seeds of fresh fruit.

Bordeaux, France; 14% ABV

PLCB Item #100048658 — on sale for $13.99 through April 5 (regularly $15.99)

Also available at: WineWorks in Marlton ($11.98; wineworksonline.com)