How malbec became a wine-world phenomenon
Malbec was once an obscure grape in decline in its native France, but one man in Argentina turned it all around.
Most of the wine regions located outside of Europe grow the same roster of famous French grapes, because those were in greatest demand when their vineyards first began trying to compete with the classics on quality. That’s why the top grapes of Burgundy and Bordeaux are so ubiquitous; almost every country of the Americas and southern hemisphere offers mostly chardonnay and sauvignon blanc for white wines and cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and pinot noir for reds. However, there are some exceptions, as with the singular case of Argentina, whose signature malbec grape is rarely grown anywhere else, and was chosen for that role the old-fashioned way.
All fine wine grapes belong to one single species and most European regions make wine from their own local “varieties.” These varieties reflect natural genetic variation, but in Europe, those that became dominant in any given place are those that have proven themselves over time to be well-suited to that region’s terrain, climate, and soil types.
While most New World wine regions simply adopted the most successful European varieties, one man in Argentina — a French agronomist — was determined to figure out first what grapes would perform best. Michel Aimé Pouget brought in cuttings of many European vines in the 1850s and established the country’s most influential wine institution. Malbec was then an obscure grape that was in decline in its native France but proved itself in trials to be ideally suited to the sun-drenched slopes of the Mendoza region. From that point forward, malbec was relentlessly promoted to growers as the safest bet for vineyard plantings, resulting in malbec becoming Argentina’s gift to the wine world. Bursting with flavors of black cherries and blackberry jam, this example features malbec’s distinctive purple color, velvety mouthfeel, and faintly floral scent of candied violets.
Ceibo Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina; 14% ABV
PLCB Item #100034251 — on sale for $11.99 through March 1 (regularly $13.99)
No alternate retail locations within 50 miles of Philadelphia according to Wine-Searcher.com.