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In Spain, Cava is more about technique than a sense of place

The sparkling wine's appellation refers to how it's produced, not where.

Grape harvest ahead of cava wine production near Barcelona.
Grape harvest ahead of cava wine production near Barcelona. Read moreCarolina Cabral Fernandez / Carolina Cabral Fernandez/Photographer: Carolina Cabral Fe

Sparkling wines are having a moment, and it’s hard to beat Spain in this category when it comes to great value. The country may be most commonly associated with red wine, but sparkling, white, and even rosé wines from Spain are all seeing significant growth in total exports. While there are other sparkling wine appellations in Spain, the vast majority — including this example — are labeled as cava.

Where most wine appellations take their name from a place — think Champagne from France’s Champagne region — cava is different. The term means “cave” or “cellar,” referring to how it is made. Cava wines must, by law, follow the same traditional method of production as Champagne, which involves a second fermentation that takes place inside each bottle. The mechanism for adding the bubbles and letting the wine patiently age in a cellar is also central to its quality.

Cava’s appellation was first conceived as a means for wineries across Spain to be able to sell a high-quality sparkling wine regardless of their region. In practice, however, most cava is grown and produced in northeastern Catalonia, near Barcelona, using native Spanish grapes such as macabeo, parellada, and xarel-lo. That’s the case for this wine as well, which is labeled under the name of a Rioja-based brand better known for their reds. In Spain, it’s not uncommon for large wineries in one region to extend their range by sourcing wines from partners elsewhere.

Cava wines can be found at every level of ambition and price, from the cheap and cheerful to the ambitious and gastronomic. This wine falls at the simpler end of the continuum (as the price might suggest), with a delicate mouthfeel and refreshing flavors of apple, lemon, and blanched almond. It’s an ideal choice for relaxed day-drinking — mimosas highly recommended.

Gran Campo Viejo Cava Brut Reserva

Spain; 11.5% ABV

PLCB Item #6563 — $10.49 through July 5 (regularly $13.49)

Also available at: Canal’s Liquors in Pennsauken ($10.91; canals-liquors-pennsauken.myshopify.com), Total Wine & More in Cherry Hill ($9.67; totalwine.com), and Moorestown Super Buy Rite in Moorestown ($9.66; moorestownbuyrite.com).