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Beatrice Loayza's approach so far at Inka Wall - her late-blooming career - has been cautious with spice and seasoning. But there's no mistaking her commitment to cooking from scratch, a real find in a region where authentic Peruvian kitchens are sparse, save for a pair of El Balconcitos in Northeast Philly and Juliana's Kitchen in Wilmington.
by Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic | Columnist Published March 22, 2014, 9:00 a.m. ET
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