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When a diner loses its soul, the meat loaf arrives welded to the plate in a brown sludge of unnaturally thick gravy. The bacon is ironed paper-flat, limp and dry. The cream of broccoli soup is lukewarm glop. The fried eggplant rounds are half raw. The coffee tastes like it was steeped through brown paper bags.
by Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic | Columnist Published June 7, 2013, 11:16 a.m. ET
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