Jason Wilson's letter to Philadelphia restaurants: Just try to pace yourself

DEAR VERY HIP City Restaurateur: I think it’s time we had another talk. It’s about your small plates. Well, not specifically the plates themselves — some of which, if we’re being honest, stretch the definition of “small.” Rather, what we need to talk about is the manner in which these plates are brought to the table. Your “coursing,” to use the au courant terminology — or more precisely, your lack thereof.