A Manayunk brewery closes, and downtown Philly brewer will replace it

As anyone who keeps tabs on their bottle shop selection knows, craft beer has seen better days: Sales are down, and, in an industry now rife with consolidations and acquisitions, more breweries are closing than opening.

That’s true across the country and in Philly — most memorably exemplified last year by Iron Hill’s abrupt, across-the-board closure. This year looks to hold more of the same, if on a smaller scale. Earlier this month, Francisville’s Our Town Taproom announced it’s looking for an operator to take over its Ridge Avenue space. King of Prussia’s Workhorse Brewing finalized a rumored changeover yesterday, confirming that it’s changed hands to Bald Birds Brewing.

And last week, Manayunk’s circus-themed Fat Lady Brewing officially folded up the tent after a roughly four-year run on Main Street.

But the taps in Manayunk won’t be dry for long: Love City Brewing signed a lease on the historic two-story building at 4323 Main St. last week. The Callowhill brewery is targeting a spring opening following some cosmetic changes, according to co-owner Melissa Walter.

The new taproom will have room for about 60 seated (more standing) and an upstairs space used mostly for private events to start out with. An in-house food partner, like Love City has with Old City’s Viva Pizza, has yet to be determined. All beer will still be brewed in Callowhill.

Walter said she and her husband/co-owner, Kevin, have been on the hunt for a second location for about two years, prompted by the desire to expand their own retail business.

Love City produces about 2,900 barrels a year at its Hamilton Street home, which opened nearly eight years ago. Around 60% of that liquid is funneled to beer stores and other bars. But the profit Love City makes off the beer it distributes pales in comparison to its margin on beer sold from its own taproom. “That’s a big part of the thought behind this expansion,” Walter said. “It’s always going to be good for us to sell our products over our bar. So how can we make that happen? Where can we make that happen?"

When the Walters first scoped out Fat Lady’s space in the fall, it met all their criteria for a second location. “We wanted to be in a place that already had good energy and good foot traffic,” which Main Street brings in spades, Melissa Walter said. Add to that the physical space itself — an 1880s-era brick-faced storefront with towering curved-glass windows outside and tin ceilings and hardwood floors inside — and the Walters were sold.

Another point that resonated, on both sides of the deal, were the two breweries’ mutually shared values: “I’m super-excited to be able to not only carry on an awesome historic building, but to carry on the torch of this small, woman-owned, queer-friendly brewery,” Walter said. “We’re like, ‘Yes, we can do that! We are that.’”

Fat Lady Brewing owner Jane Lipton, whose mother bought 4323 Main St. in 1986, said she feels equally positive about passing the baton to Love City. “From the moment they came and looked at it, I was really hopeful, because I thought it was such a good fit,” Lipton said in an interview this week. “In their beer and their brand and how they operate, I just feel there’s some kind of symmetry.”

Lipton has been a fixture in Manayunk’s business community for 40 years — ever since her mother deployed her to oversee a second location of her South Street antiques store, Two By Four. “My whole life was around that South Street corridor then, and mom said, ‘I’m moving you to manage Manayunk and I want you to do in Manayunk what you did in South Street,’ which was her way of saying, get involved in the business association, get involved in whatever way,” Lipton recalls. “And I was like, ‘Oh my God, Manayunk?’”

In the years that followed, Lipton did just that, eventually serving as the executive director of the Manayunk Development Corp. from 2009 to 2019. Aside from running Two By Four, she also launched her own antiques business and a co-working space in the 6,000-square-foot Main Street building before leasing it as a satellite taproom to Bald Birds in 2019. When the pandemic forced the Audubon brewery to break the lease, one of the owners suggested Lipton get her own brewery license when she had trouble finding another tenant.

Thus in 2021 they launched Fat Lady, a pet project that was immediately near and dear to Lipton’s late, beer-loving wife, Karen Kolkka, an artist and art teacher. The couple threw themselves into making the brewery a warm, community-oriented space: “We picked the circus theme because everyone’s welcome at the circus,” Lipton said. “I just wanted Fat Lady Brewing to be a place where everybody and anybody could feel good and happy and safe and accepted.”

Over its four years, Fat Lady hosted scores of events. Lipton rattles off a long list: speed dating, fashion shows, live music, open-mic nights, bingo, Quizzo, dance parties, drag shows, and burlesque shows, and community beef and beers, among others. “It was really fun,” she said.

“And then in 2023 my wife’s cancer returned, and I had to step away, and the rest is kind of history, and it’s not the same without her,” Lipton said. “It took me a year to come into the taproom that she had picked every color for and every paint. She hung every light bulb in this beautiful fixture that we made ourselves.”

After Kolkka’s passing, Lipton decided it was time to retire. She wound down Fat Lady’s operations at the end of 2025, just before the lease with Love City was finalized. She’s confident Kolkka — who had been to Love City with her in years previous — would strongly approve of the coming transition for the space.

“She would be very happy about this, and that makes me feel good,” Lipton said.