Marigold Kitchen: Delectable dishes beyond the razzle-dazzle

There is the inevitable liquid nitro smoke fuming around the tables at Marigold Kitchen. There is foam, too, my favorite being a cloth-bound cheddar whipped to a pouf inside the miniature hollow of a fingerling potato skin. There are "ham bubbles" that pop over warm demitasses of silky cauliflower and white bean soups.