No credit, no reservations - no problem at delightful A Mano

At this advanced stage in our convenience-obsessed dining economy, the mere notion of an expensive restaurant that takes only cash but accepts no reservations is a turn-off to say the least. Add a sparely decorated dining room and surging weekend crowds, including a loud laugher who croaked like Arnold Horshack behind our table all night, pushing the sound level to a 95-decibel roar, and you have a few strikes against A Mano that might understandably cross it off the list for many.