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Pan-demic: Ethnic cooking drives up sales of specialty cookware

I'M VERY ATTACHED to my paella pan. A gift from my friend Max Baez Berg, a seasoned maitre d'-about-town with a Spanish accent as thick as a well-made romesco sauce, the pan is a thing of beauty. Well-balanced and slightly off-round, it barely fits in my oven, but never mind. When I present the traditional Spanish rice dish in the pot for which it was intended, the oohs and aahs make my day.

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