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As spring blooms, try this rosé as fresh as a sea breeze on the French Riviera

With French rosés in fashion and climbing in price, this California offering ticks all the boxes for balance and flavor.

Trees in bloom signal it’s time to start stocking the fridge with rosé.

But these can be among the hardest wines to shop for: Their labels rarely say much besides stating the obvious, that the wine in your hand is a rosé. The meaningful question is whether a given rosé is sweet or dry or somewhere in between, since this is the category’s main axis of style variation.

This burning question is almost never answered in print for commercial reasons; vintners have learned from experience that more people will try their wine if its label is ambiguous on this point.

Sweetness in wine is a love or hate thing, so fans of dry rosés often limit themselves to European options, particularly those from the south of France. This region’s wines reliably fall below the threshold of sweetness perception that hovers between 5 and 10 grams of sugar per liter, depending on the individual and the amount of balancing acidity present. Their other advantage is that most are made from grapes specifically grown for rosé, meaning harvested before they reach peak ripeness to yield a lighter-bodied and more refreshing wine.

With French rosés in fashion and climbing in price, it’s worth making an effort to identify other options that fit these criteria, like this delightful rosé made with organic grapes.

In the glass, it offers scents of fresh-cut strawberries and tangerines, and flavors of tart white-fleshed cherries. When alcohol is at or below 13% and residual sugar is below 5 grams per liter, you can be assured that the wine in question will taste as brisk, clean, and refreshing as a sea breeze on the French Riviera.

Bonterra Organic Rosé, California

$12.99, 12.3% alcohol

PLCB Item #97472

Sale price through May 1 — regularly $16.99

Also available at these New Jersey stores:

Martin’s Liquors in Mount Laurel, $12.99, martinsliquorsonline.com; Wine Warehouse in Sicklerville, $15.99, sicklerville.winewarehousenj.com.