To the first-time visitor, Mom-Mom’s Kitchen in Bridesburg comes as a bit of a shock: a charming, olive-green storefront settled on an industrial strip of Orthodox Street, amid auto body shops and a maze of fences clad with barbed wire. But once inside its wood-paneled dining room, adorned with Polish flags, string lights, and plants, you forget all about the big rigs rumbling past.
Equally surprising: Mom-Mom’s chocolate ganache pierogi, a special menu item recently crafted by co-owners Ryan Elmore and Kaitlyn Wines.
This gooey Valentine’s Day treat isn’t one you’ll learn to make in Mom-Mom’s pierogi school, but it does use the same sour cream-based dough as their top-seller, potato pierogi. To make it, they pinch circles of the soft, eggy dough around cocoa-covered portions of chocolate ganache, made with unsweetened dark chocolate and heavy cream.
The sweet dumplings are boiled for a few minutes, then plunged into an ice bath before being flash-frozen — a crucial step to achieve the pierogi’s molten center. Finally, they’re deep-fried in a tabletop fryer that’s on loan to the Mom-Mom’s crew. (They tried pan-searing the dessert pierogi on the flattop grill, but the ganache didn’t heat through by the time the dough was done crisping.) “Now we want to fry everything,” Elmore said.
The pierogi emerge from the fryer with a fortune-cookie tan. They’re served three to a plate, sprinkled with powdered sugar and garnished with a tart raspberry sauce, brûléed swirls of homemade Marshmallow Fluff, and a scoop of Mom-Mom’s sour cream ice cream.
Like all pierogi — and most Polish food — these are time- and labor-intensive to make (which is one reason why the first rule of pierogi school is “never make pierogi alone”). The last batch of chocolate ganache pierogi Mom-Mom’s made sold out in two days; they pinched a fresh batch last Friday, enough to last through Valentine’s Day, they hope.
If you can’t make it to Bridesburg before then, there’s another chocolate ganache pierogi in town at Pierogie Kitchen. Around Valentine’s, most of the markets that stock their popular frozen pierogi — Weavers Way, Corropolese Bakery, Village Pantry, T&F Farmers’ Pride, Swiacki Meats, Deli on 4th, and select Acmes — carry the dessert variety for around $10 for a bag of 10. Or head to Pierogie Kitchen’s Roxborough market and eatery, where they’ll prepare them fresh, sautéed in butter ($7 for a half-dozen).
Chocolate ganache pierogi, $8 at Mom-Mom’s Kitchen, 2551 Orthodox St., 215-613-7781, mommomnomnom.com.