This spicy red wine varietal isn’t as popular as cabarnet sauvignon, but it’s worth seeking out
Flavor-wise, syrah wines have a distinctive spicy scent and flavor, reminiscent of wild berries and black pepper.
Syrah is the name of the most intense member of a group of spicy red grapes native to the Rhône Valley region of France. However, many American wine drinkers are more familiar with it as shiraz, the name the grape goes by in Australia. While this week’s wine is not the kind of lightly sweet, cheap, and cheerful “fruit bomb” made famous Down Under, it does deliver explosive flavor worthy of its cheeky label.
Syrah grapes make delicious wines in both California and Washington State, but there’s little incentive for growers to plant it when cabernet sauvignon commands higher returns. With small berries and skins as thick as those of cabernet sauvignon, syrah grapes yield nearly as much solids as juice.
Since color and flavor are found in the skin of grapes, not in their flesh or juice, this is an important style factor that determines how intense red wines can be. Syrah’s big flavor and deep color make it a natural choice for making bold and robust red wines, and its knack for resisting oxidation preserves a youthful, violet-tinged color longer than most before succumbing to the browning of age.
Flavor-wise, syrah wines have a distinctive spicy scent and flavor, reminiscent of wild berries and black pepper. In cooler climates, like its native France, syrah makes paler, more acidic wines that smell of salty foods like green peppercorns and cured meats. In warmer, sunnier regions like Washington’s Columbia Valley, though, syrah lends itself to making fuller-bodied powerhouse wines — like this one — that are dense with dark, jammy flavors that are decadent, dessertlike, and meant for immediate gratification. This premium bottling is a perfect example, with its concentrated flavors of blueberry pie and raspberry jam, accented with meaty aromatics that evoke barbecue ribs or beef jerky.
Charles Smith “Boom Boom!” Syrah
Washington State, 14.5% ABV
PLCB Item #1501, on sale for $15.69 through Jan. 4 (regularly $18.69)
Also available at: WineWorks in Marlton ($16.98; wineworksonline.com) and Canal’s Liquors in Pennsauken ($17.99; canalsliquors.com)