It’s a dim-sum specialist, but no carts roll around Nom Wah Tea Parlor, the Philly branch of the New York City landmark, on the edge of Chinatown and off the beaten path.

There’s a full bar. You order by way of a tear-off notepad menu, checking what you want and handing it to a waiter. Signature dishes include dumplings, buns, sui mai, and an egg roll that harks back to an earlier time, before greasier spring rolls ruled Chinese menus.

Nom Wah’s “OG” rolls ($7) are light, rolled crepes filled loosely with chicken, celery, baby corn, and matchstick-cut carrots. Crack one open and steam pours out. Along with the leather chairs and lacquered tables, I was having a mild flashback to the old China Castle on Race Street, our family’s go-to back in the ’60s.

Nom Wah, 218 N. 13th St., Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday; 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. Closed Tuesday.