South Philly’s Triangle Tavern is an unexpected spot for Italian vegan fare
The legend of South Philly's Triangle Tavern at 10th & Reed looms large.
The legend of South Philly's Triangle Tavern at 10th & Reed looms large.
Images of Dusty Gale taking out his teeth to sing Italian songs or his drummer Tony Dell unbuttoning his short-sleeved shirt, sliding a headband over his ultra-black toupee and strumming a washboard guitar while screaming "Born in the USA" at the top of his lungs are not things I, or the tap room's longtime habitues, will easily forget.
The post-Prohibition corner bar wasn't just a hub of weird entertainment. Up until the time The Triangle closed (loosely eight years ago, though it would re-open intermittently with a surprising heavy metal vibe), it was a good place to grab a saloon-style roast beef sandwich on a soft round Italian roll, a deep faux-wooden bowl of mussels in a garlicky white broth and ricotta-stuffed manicotti smothered in red gravy.
The post-Prohibition corner bar wasn't just a hub of weird entertainment. Up until the time The Triangle closed (loosely eight years ago, though it would re-open intermittently with a surprising heavy metal vibe), it was a good place to grab a saloon-style roast beef sandwich on a soft round Italian roll, a deep faux-wooden bowl of mussels in a garlicky white broth and ricotta-stuffed manicotti smothered in red gravy.
Most of these things are still on Chef Marc McKinney's new menu at the newest version of Triangle – re-incarnated by David Frank and Stephen Simons of Cantina Los Caballito – along with other token items of Italian checkered-tablecloth tradition such as Eggplant Parmesan, Fettuccine Bolognese and Veal Picatta.
The one big surprise on the menu, one that Triangle's GM Ashley Thomas says visitors love, is McKinney's dedication to vegan and vegetarian fare.
Purists, relax.
Purists, relax.
I'm not saying that the Triangle is cooking and serving the vegan fare of Vedge or Charlie was a sinner. What McKinney is doing is making Italian pub grub traditions that substitute wheat gluten (seitan) or earthy soy products (tempeh) for meat without abandoning red sauce tang.
Vegan lasagna from Triangle Tavern. ( Colin Kerrigan / Philly.com )
It's not that McKinney is out to mimic meat tastes with items such as the spaghetti & vegan meatballs, vegan lasagna, buffalo seitan wings, and a shifting veggie Bruschetta of the day. McKinney's just looking to offer smarter options and lighter bites in what usually seems like a not-entirely-healthy setting.
"I've been with the company ten years now," says McKinney, who started at the Royal Tavern before Cantina(s) and the renovated Khyber. "It goes where I go."
As he grew up eating the style of food that he serves, McKinney was his own best litmus test as to what would please the crowd. Considering the root ethnicity of the South Philly neighborhood – how its old school families might feel about biting into a light, hearty tempeh-seitan meatball – he knew the risks going in.
As he grew up eating the style of food that he serves, McKinney was his own best litmus test as to what would please the crowd. Considering the root ethnicity of the South Philly neighborhood – how its old school families might feel about biting into a light, hearty tempeh-seitan meatball – he knew the risks going in.
Vegan bruschetta from Triangle Tavern. ( Colin Kerrigan / Philly.com )
"It can definitely be tough, especially in this neighborhood," McKinney says. "Most people have in their mind 'a perfect meatball,' or what they consider to be a perfect red sauce so a certain bias exists based on individual tastes. I try to do things the way I think they should be done, very simple, rustic Italian bar food. It pleases most of the time and I don't take it personally if someone thinks their grandma's meatballs are better."
Whether he's cooking on-menu or offering specials such as a rustic Chicken Cacciatore made with braised seitan (instead of chicken) done in a stew of tomatoes, onions, and herbs, the key to making vegan Italian fare is simplicity and familiarity.
Whether he's cooking on-menu or offering specials such as a rustic Chicken Cacciatore made with braised seitan (instead of chicken) done in a stew of tomatoes, onions, and herbs, the key to making vegan Italian fare is simplicity and familiarity.
"If someone orders vegan lasagna it should taste like lasagna," he says. "I enjoy seeing non-veg people try the vegan fare and actually having to admit it's damn good, especially the old timers who used to hang here regularly. That's my reward."