Today I visited a Baghdad neighborhood that used to be the heartland of Al Qaeda, and Sunni insurgents. Ameriyah was a war zone, from which Shiite residents and many decent Sunnis were driven out, and car bombs directed outwards, often directly onto the airport road which runs alongside the neighborhood. This place was once so dangerous, that, even on my last trip a year ago when much in Baghdad had improved, I was cautioned not to go there. Even this time, I walked accompanied at a distance by three U.S. soldiers. But I got the feeling that I would be safe coming back on my own.