What has been astonishing about this visit to Baghdad is the psychological shift in officials and ordinary people.
The future is still uncertain, electricity in Baghdad neighborhoods varies from a couple of hours a day to 12 hours at best, jobs are scarce, suicide bombs still go off. Government corruption is rife and essential services absent.
But Iraqis seem to be getting back a sense of their "Iraqi-ness." Nationalism is in the air. The security forces finally have a country to defend, instead of focusing their loyalties on sect and religion.
This sense of Iraqi-ness has returned in the past year, when people could go outside without feeling terror. Everyone I speak with says people are tired of the killing. Iraqis seem to have emerged from the worst, even though the future is still not clear.