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Chain can suit almost any taste or budget

J.B. Dawson's Restaurant & Bar Pilgrim Garden Shopping Center, 5035-37 Township Line Rd., Drexel Hill, 610-853-0700. 440 Plymouth Rd.,

J.B. Dawson's

Restaurant & Bar

Pilgrim Garden Shopping Center, 5035-37 Township Line Rd.,

Drexel Hill, 610-853-0700.

440 Plymouth Rd.,

Plymouth Meeting, 610-260-0550.

92 N. Flowers Mill Rd., Langhorne, 215-702-8119.

www.jbdawsons.com.

Hours. All locations serve lunch and dinner daily. Hours vary slightly by location.

Parking. At the Drexel Hill J.B. Dawson's, where we dined, there's a free, large parking lot.

What's the story? Most 10-year-olds don't know much about casual upscale cuisine, tasteful yet friendly ambience, or the pricey luxury of eating out. J.B. Dawson's does. The locally owned chain launched in 1996 with Austin's Restaurant & Bar in Reading, then morphed into J.B. Dawson's with its Philadelphia-area debut in Langhorne two years later. The owners have since added locations in Plymouth Meeting and Drexel Hill; a fifth location is in the works, but the timing and location are state secrets.

The scene. Brick walls, cozy leather booths, soft background music and lantern lighting create an intimate mood, even with a vast dining area. J.B. Dawson's is family-friendly, but best for well-behaved kids past the high-chair or toddler age.

What we had. The menu lists a huge range of offerings and prices for all tastes and budgets. Decisions were difficult. The host - a sucker for all things shrimp - enjoyed the shrimp pasta saute ($13.99): shrimp served over linguine, tossed with sun-dried tomatoes and fresh spinach in a garlic herb cream sauce, garnished with pine nuts and Parmesan cheese. Very flavorful pasta, sauce and toppings, but rather skimpy on other ingredients: just three shrimp and a few shreds of tomato and spinach. A shared appetizer of Texas tenders (freshly fried tenders with fries and three sauces, $7.49) and a wonderful raspberry iced tea helped fill the gaps. The Big Kid scarfed half the appetizer and a cheeseburger from the kids' menu (a steal at $3.99, including drink refills). Mom found the Caesar salad entree yummy, and a great deal at just $5.99.

Chef's suggestions. The Oscars (your choice, topped with garlic cream sauce, seasoned lump crab meat and asparagus) include chicken ($16.49), filet ($27.49) or salmon ($21.49), plus a side dish and salad. Twelve-ounce cuts are standard on most of the steaks and the prime rib. Mondays offer "all you can eat ribs," with unlimited sides and salad, for $21.99.

Nice touches. Kids eat free all day Sunday - an unexpected treat during our visit. J.B. Dawson's offers 15 wines by the glass and bottle and 14 varieties of beers. Best of all, a team approach by the very professional staff means that any server will help any patron at any time, so there's no "sorry, not my table" here.

After you eat. Wander Pilgrim Garden Shopping Center or be on your way north or south quickly with busy Route 1 right outside the door.