Three dog bite

The lines are sleek at the new 707 Restaurant and Bar. But the chow couldn't be more down-home, though it

is

dressed up a bit. Exhibit A: The "Hot Dog Trio," three slices of superb frankfurter (from venerable Reiker's German butcher shop in Fox Chase), served in supermarket buns with a bouquet of toppings - relish and mustard, a timid sauerkraut, and chili that reminded one diner precisely of the "Spanish dog in 1964 at the A&W in Hartford City, Indiana." Which we take to be a very good thing.

- Rick Nichols
Hot Dog

Trio, $9,

707 Restaurant and

Bar, 707 Chestnut St.,

215-

922-7770, www. 707restaurant.com.