It doesn't take a genius to figure out how the Hyatt's XIX restaurant got its number theme - not after dialing a pair of 19's for a phone reservation, then gliding up 19 floors to the luxurious view of its rotunda cafe.

What really is a bit of a shock is how chef Marc Plessis manages to serve such an impressive three-course lunch deal for $19. There's a splendid buffet of charcuterie, salads, and cheeses to start, an entree of the day, and a lavish spread of cookie desserts to finish. My fish of the day, a crisply seared wild striped bass over white beans in a curried seafood froth, was in itself worth the price of admission.

The $19 three-course lunch is available daily at XIX Nineteen, Park Hyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue, Broad and Walnut, 215-790-1919.

- Craig LaBan