Jim Coleman: The scoop on shrimp

Q: My husband has asked me to make shrimp scampi for a family dinner. Could you please send me a recipe, because the only one I have calls for prawns. I'd also like to know the difference between prawns and scampi. And is shrimp scampi traditionally served over pasta?

- Abby M.

A: This sounds like a very simple question. But in the mystical land of the food kingdom it happens to be a very confusing one.

A shrimp is a shrimp, a prawn is a shrimp, and scampi is a shrimp. Simple? Well, nothing is as easy as you want it to be.

Let's focus on shrimp vs. prawn. In some places, shrimp are considered to be small and prawns are large or extra-large shrimp. That's why your recipe listed prawns; they wanted you to use large shrimp. (But they're wrong.)

In other areas, the terms define freshwater or saltwater shrimp. In that camp, most people believe that shrimp are saltwater and prawns are freshwater. (Wrong again, Tonto.) Another popular belief is that prawns are usually cooked with the heads on, and shrimp are always cooked with the heads removed. (Once again, not always true - and that's coming from someone whose head may or may not be attached.)

Scientifically speaking, the real difference between these critters lies in the way their bodies are constructed. Prawns' front legs have a different makeup. And the biggest difference, according to the scientific community, is the layout of the shell.

The layers of a prawn's shell overlap like shingles. In contrast, the second layer of a shrimp's shell overlaps the first and the third. And there are some other fundamental differences with the females and their eggs that I don't understand, so I'm not going to try to explain them to you.

The reality is that, in the land of American restaurants, the two have become interchangeable. Chances are, if you or I are out and see prawns offered as a special, it's really shrimp.

But if we're out and are eating what was referred to as shrimp on the menu, we could very well be eating prawns. If that's not confusing enough, it gets worse when we throw in the term "scampi."

First of all, scampi is the plural for scampo. Of course, no one ever eats one scampo, so that's why you never hear that word! And the real question is whether or not scampi is a food item or a style of preparation.

Here in the United States, scampi is usually a menu title for an Italian American shrimp dish that typically consists of oil and/or butter, garlic, dry white wine and parsley.

On American menus it is usually referred to as shrimp scampi. Scampi in other parts of the world usually refers to the shrimp itself. If you order shrimp scampi in Europe, you will show off your American flair by asking for "shrimp shrimp."

Furthermore, scampi is prepared many different ways around the world. In the U.K., scampi is coated in breadcrumbs, fried and served with tartar sauce.

I am assuming that you want a traditional, American-style shrimp scampi, but to be on the safe side, I would find out what your husband's family considers traditional. I hope that you can start your own tradition with the recipes that I am sharing.

YOU SAY 'SCAMPI'

& I SAY 'SHRIMP'

1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds peeled and

deveined large shrimp (18 to 26)

1/3 cup clarified butter

4 tablespoons minced garlic

1 shallot, finely chopped

1/4 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped fresh

parsley

Kosher salt and freshly ground

pepper, to taste

Rinse shrimp and set aside. Heat butter in large skillet over medium heat. Cook garlic and shallot in the butter about 2 minutes or until softened but not browned.

Add shrimp, wine and lemon juice; cook until shrimp are pink and firm, about 2 minutes on each side; try not to overcook them. Add chopped parsley and salt and pepper before serving. Serves 4.

TRADITIONAL SCAMPI PASTA

1/4 cup olive oil

1 1/2 pounds peeled and deveined

large shrimp

6 to 8 large garlic cloves, peeled

and finely chopped

1 large shallot, finely chopped

1/2 teaspoon dried hot red pepper

flakes

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon kosher salt or to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper or to taste

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

5 tablespoons unsalted butter

3/4 pound angel-hair pasta

1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf

parsley

Heat the oil in a large (at least 12-inch), heavy skillet over moderately high heat until almost smoking. Saute shrimp, turning over once, until just cooked through, about 2 minutes, then transfer with tongs or a slotted spoon to a large platter.

Add garlic and shallot to oil remaining in the skillet along with red pepper flakes, wine, salt and pepper, and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the lemon juice and the butter to skillet, stirring until melted.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta according to package directions. Reserve 1 cup pasta-cooking water, then drain pasta in a colander.

Return the shrimp to the pan along with the parsley and cooked pasta and reserved pasta water. Stir well and adjust seasonings. Drizzle a bit more olive oil over the pasta and serve immediately. Serves 4.

Chef Jim Coleman, corporate chef at Normandy Farm and Blue Bell Country Insert Club, is the author of three cookbooks and hosts two nationally syndicated shows - "A Chef's Table," noon Saturdays on WHYY (91-FM); and "Flavors of America," 1 p.m. Saturdays on Channel 12 and 4:30 p.m. weekdays on CN8. He and his wife, writer Candace Hagan, will answer your questions. E-mail ChefColeman@aol.com.