Zakes Cafe, set in Marlene Zakes and Joe McFadden's Victorian mansion in Fort Washington, built a rep for cakes before segueing into brunch/breakfast/lunch/dinners. Lately, the sous chef known as Mrs. Thieu, classically trained in Vietnam, has added Asian fare, such as a dim-sum platter, presented bento-box style, that would impress any Chinatown regular. The brunch version ($12.95) is more than enough for one: two crispy spring rolls (stuffed with pork, shrimp, crab and vegetables), two Saigon rolls (with chicken and shrimp), four homemade shrimp-and-pork dumplings, sides of cucumber salad and a slaw made of Napa cabbage and ginger dressing, plus dipping sauces. A larger dinner version ($18) usually is ordered to share.

Zakes Cafe, 444 Bethlehem Pike, Fort Washington, 215-654-7600

.

- Michael Klein