Jim Coleman: A pair of pears: How do Bartletts and Bosc compare?

Q: Can you tell me the difference between red Bartlett pears and Bosc pears, especially when it comes to cooking and serving them? I will have a lot of both from my in-laws this year, and any recipes would be appreciated. Best regards.

- Joe F.

A: Joe, when it comes to in-laws, it's better to have them drop off a couple of bushels of summer pears than to have them drop off a bunch of pear-shaped kids for the summer.

You know I'm kidding . . . we all love our in-laws and their wonderful kids. Let's stay with the "kid" theme for a moment, because it will help to identify the character differences between red Bartlett pears and their Bosc buddies.

We all know the type of kid who is extremely well-rounded. There is nothing this kid doesn't do well; on the other hand, he doesn't do anything great that would distinguish himself in a crowd.

He is well-liked and fits in just fine in any activity. And the best thing this kid has going for him is his appearance. If Norman Rockwell wanted to paint the perfect American child, this kid would be his model. He is, Joe, the red Bartlett of kids.

I say this because good, old red Bartletts have the perfect pear shape: a rounded bell on the bottom and an obvious shoulder with a slender neck on top. When ripening, they change from dark red to bright red and are the perfect choice for a fruit bowl or a centerpiece.

They work well for canning, and their definitive pear flavor, sweetness and dense flesh (which allows them to hold their shape) also make them a good choice for most other culinary preparations.

Every now and then you come across a kid who outwardly isn't overly impressive but who consistently surprises you with his distinctive characteristics. This kind of kid matures more quickly, so he is not overwhelmed by those around him. This unassuming kid, who grows up to run a Fortune 500 company, is our Bosc pear.

Their ordinary green-brown hue hides a delicious, spicy, firm flesh. In my opinion they are the best of all the pears. They retain their shape and texture, whether they are baked, broiled or poached. The spicy flavor keeps them from being outdone by spices like cinnamon, nutmeg and even black pepper.

Boscs can outperform other pears because they become sweet and flavorful before their flesh has fully softened.

Red Bartlett and Bosc are both great pears, and each can have its place in your heart and your kitchen. I hope you enjoy the kids . . . I mean pears . . . when they get dropped off this summer.

RED BARTLETT TURN-OVERS

1 large red Bartlett pear, peeled,

cored, and cut into 1/4-inch dice

3 tablespoons dried cranberries

3 tablespoons pear jam or jelly,

heated

1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/8 teaspoon allspice

1 frozen puff pastry sheet (from a

17 1/4-ounce package), thawed

1 large egg, lightly beaten

3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter,

cut into 6 equal parts

1 tablespoon sugar mixed with

1 tablespoon brown sugar

Put oven rack in lower third of oven and preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter a large baking sheet.

Stir together diced pear, cranberries, jelly, cornstarch and allspice in a bowl.

Roll out pastry on a lightly floured surface into a 12-by-9-inch rectangle. Cut into 6 roughly 4-inch squares. Divide pear mixture among squares, leaving a 1-inch border, and brush egg wash on border.

Top each filling with butter. Fold each pastry into a triangle, enclosing filling, and crimp edges with a fork. Make 2 small steam vents in top of each turnover by cutting with a sharp knife.

Brush tops lightly with more egg wash and sprinkle with sugar mixture. Bake on a buttered baking sheet until puffed and golden brown, about 20 minutes. Cool turnovers to warm on a wire rack. Makes 6 pastries.

BOSC PEAR PIE

1/4 cup pear nectar or juice

1/2 cup brown sugar

4 tablespoons butter at room

temperature

4 Bosc pears, peeled, cored and

sliced

3 tablespoons pecan pieces

2 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 refrigerated ready-made

piecrusts

1 teaspoon cinnamon mixed with 1/4

teaspoon nutmeg

Combine pear nectar or juice, brown sugar and butter in a bowl. Add pears, pecans and cornstarch. Place one piecrust in a 9-inch pie pan and fill with mixture.

Slice the second piecrust into eight 1/2-inch-wide strips and drape over filled pie shell in a crisscross pattern; pinch edges to fasten to bottom crust. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 50 minutes to 1 hour, or until golden brown. Sprinkle top with cinnamon mixture. Makes 8 servings.

Chef Jim Coleman, corporate chef at Normandy Farm and Blue Bell Country Club, is the author of three cookbooks and hosts two nationally syndicated shows: "A Chef's Table," noon Saturdays on WHYY (91-FM); and "Flavors of America," 1 p.m. Saturdays on Channel 12, and 4:30 p.m. weekdays on CN8. He and his wife, writer Candace Hagan, will answer your questions. E-mail ChefColeman@ aol.com.