Tuna sandwich, Take Two

Jose Garces' dark, Basque-inspired Tinto wine bar has bulked up, adding a new dining room - and bulked up its offerings, too. There's now Sunday brunch. And a Bilbao Express lunch featuring soup or salad and a sandwich. The other day we sampled an exquisite truffled chestnut soup, studded with duck, mushroom hash and pistachio. (The crab-seafood chowder, on the other hand, was on the salty side.) But the take on a tuna sandwich - De Bonito - was the bomb, a tart-sweet tuna salad of marinated Spanish tuna and creme fraiche; red onion escabeche; and tangy, pickled anchovy. Served on a flaky Miel croissant with see-through, house-made potato chips, it'll spoil your taste for the mayo-heavy lunch-counter "usual."

Bilbao Express Lunch, $14.99, Tinto, 114 S. 20th St. (at Sansom), 215-665-9150 or www.tintorestaurant.com

- Rick Nichols