Three-bell dumplings

Chef Sean Weinberg's wood-fired ode to Mediterranean flavors and local ingredients, Restaurant Alba, has matured over the last few years into one of the region's very best BYOBs, earning a well-deserved upgrade to three bells at my last visit. A large part of that success is due to Weinberg's willingness to focus his once wide-ranging menu more on the flavors of Italy that inspired him to begin with.

His house-made agnolotti are a perfect example. The inspiration for these plump little dumplings is pure Piedmont. But the stuffings - slow-braised breast of grass-fed Birchrun Hill Farm veal, ricotta, and local spinach - is still pure Chester County. Served in a sage-infused brodo steeped from rabbit, duck, veal, and the rinds of Parmigiano-Reggiano, this dish is the epitome of handcrafted rustic elegance.

- Craig LaBan

The veal agnolotti cost $18 at Restaurant Alba, 7 W. King St., Malvern, 610-644-4009.