Cheese of the Month

The locally minded Fair Food Farmstand in the Reading Terminal Market is one of the best sources of regional cheeses, with up to three dozen - many from small, raw-milk artisans - tucked into its fridge case.

My latest find here is Provolone Rustico, a unique provolone-style creation from the relatively new cheesemakers at Cherry Grove Farm in Lawrenceville, N.J. Made from the raw milk of Jersey cows that graze on organic pasture, this firm, waxy yellow cheese gets an olive-oil rub several times a week during its five-month aging. The oil massage creates a thin, cinder-black rind, and a flavor infused with the nutty fruit of cured olives. It's a great melter on toast, but also perfect as a little room-temp snack with a sliver of sweet orange quince paste.

Cherry Grove's Provolone Rustico (a.k.a "filata rustica" at DiBruno Bros.) is $12 per pound at the Fair Food Farmstand, 215-627-2029.

- Craig LaBan