Some Choice Steakhouses

Once upon a time in Philadelphia, watching the flames curl up around beef cuts on the grill at the Pub was part of the dining show on a Saturday night out for couples and families who often waited an hour or more to be seated.

Though four city sites closed in the '80s, the Pub in Pennsauken (Airport Circle; 856-665-6440), which opened in 1951, still draws loyal diners, but competition among steak houses is now so thick that few in the new generation of meat lovers even recognize the Pub, by name or history.

Here are some key players among local steak houses. More (Union Trust, Chima, Del Frisco, and Redstone American Grill) are due to open this year. Unless specified, restaurants are located in Philadelphia.

Barclay Prime (2004), 237 S. 18th St.; 215-732-7560. Offers 24-ounce dry-aged porterhouse, Australian tajima Kobe beef cuts, and Kobe cheesesteak. www.barclayprime.com. (See "Our Critic's Picks.")

Brandywine Prime Seafood & Chops (2007), at Chadds Ford Inn, 1617 Baltimore Pike (Routes 1 & 100), Chadds Ford; 610-388-8088. Dan Butler (of Wilmington's Toscana and Deep Blue) crossed the border with a new concept, local beef, and 14-ounce dry-aged rib eye. www.brandywineprime.com.

Capital Grille (2001), 1338 Chestnut St.; 215-545-9588. A varied menu with 24-ounce dry-aged porterhouse steak. www.thecapitalgrille.com. (See "Our Critic's Picks.")

The Chophouse (2002), 4 Lakeview Drive S., Rte. 561, Gibbsboro, Camden County; 856-566-7300. Certified Angus Beef dry-aged on site. www.thechophouse.us.

Fleming's (2006), 555 E. Lancaster Ave., Radnor; 610-688-9463. A traditional steakhouse with wines by the glass and 40-ounce porterhouse for two. www.flemingssteakhouse.com.

Fogo de Chao (2006), 1337 Chestnut St.; 215-636-9700. Brazilian steakhouse with 15 fire-roasted meats on skewers. www.fogodechao.com.

Morton's (1985), 1411 Walnut St.; 215-557-0724. Double-cut porterhouse and filet, but double-cut prime rib is served only Friday and Saturday. www.mortons.com.

Also at the Pavilion at King of Prussia mall (2002), 640 W. DeKalb Pike, King of Prussia; 610-491-1900. And at Caesars (2005), 2100 Pacific Ave., Atlantic City; 609-449-1044.

The Palm at the Bellevue (1989), 200 S. Broad St.; 215-546-7256. Founded in 1926 in New York, this Italian steakhouse is the oldest white-tablecloth restaurant gone national to remain family-owned. Philly was 10th of now 29 Palms. www.thepalm.com.

Also at the Quarter in Tropicana Casino and Resort (2005), 2801 Pacific Ave., Atlantic City; 609-344-7256.

Picanha Brazilian Grill (2005), 6501 Castor Ave. 215-743-4647. All-you-can-eat neighborhood steakhouse buffet. (See "Our Critic's Picks.")

Pietro's Prime Steakhouse & Seafood (2007), 125 West Market St., West Chester; 484-760-6100. Branded Black Angus beef and 32-ounce porterhouse. A neighborhood spot run by fourth-generation foodies. www.pietrosprime.com.

The Prime Rib (1997), 1701 Locust St.; 215-772-1701. Aged bone-in prime ribs, cut and broiled to order. www.theprimerib.com. (See "Our Critic's Picks.")

Rae (2007) at the Cira Centre, 2929 Arch St.; 215-922-3839. Even before adding a reserve menu with prime dry-aged rib chop and porterhouse to 48 ounces, it made Esquire's list of Best New Restaurants in America 2007. www.raerestaurant.com.

Redstone American Grill (2006) at the Promenade at Sagemore, Rte. 73, Marlton; 856-396-0332. Open kitchen, dry-aged beef, a Kobe burger and no reservations. Fourth in a laid-back Minnesota chain, with a fifth due to open in Plymouth Meeting this summer. www.redstonegrill.com.

Ruth's Chris Steak House (1988), 260 S. Broad St.; 215-790-1515. Begun as Chris Steak House, New Orleans in 1927, sold to Ruth Fertel in 1965, now publicly traded with 120 sites worldwide. www.ruthschris.com.

Also (2001) at 220 N. Gulph Rd., King of Prussia; 610-992-1818. And (2005) at the Walk, 2020 Atlantic Ave., Atlantic City; 609-344-5833.

Shula's 347 Grill (2007) at Philadelphia Marriott West, 111 Crawford Ave., West Conshohocken; 610-260-9400. A casual venue in the Shula franchise, serving Certified Angus Beef. www.donshula.com.

Smith & Wollensky (2000), at the Rittenhouse, 210 W. Rittenhouse Square; 215-545-1700. A 44-ounce porterhouse for two. Only national chain dry-aging and cutting USDA prime at its nine sites. www.smithandwollensky.com.

Sullivan's (1998), 700 W. DeKalb Pike, King of Prussia; 610-878-9025. Offers 24-ounce porterhouse and rib-eye cuts at 17 restaurants. www.sullivansteakhouse.com.

Also (1997) at 5525 Concord Pike, Wilmington; 302-479-7970.

Ted's Montana Grill (2006), 260 S. Broad St.; 215-772-1230. Branded all-natural beef and lean bison cuts. www.tedsmontanagrill.com.

Marilynn Marter