Craig LaBan: Best of the rest

If you're thinking that all a food critic wants for dinner every night is an eight-course tasting menu at a high-end restaurant, you'd be wrong.

Usually, I'm content exploring the stunning diversity and depth of our dining scene just below those more rarefied experiences. In fact, it is that extraordinary wealth of sophisticated neighborhood spots, BYOBs, internationally inspired kitchens, gastropubs, and New American bistros - constantly fine-tuning to reflect the moment - that is the true measure of Philadelphia's considerable worth as a restaurant town.

Here are just the best of my favorites beyond the 13 that already appeared in my recent four-bell quest, most of which were revisited recently. A couple - Fond and Pumpkin - were even upgraded to three bells after showing major improvements. The lists are in six categories, but are not arranged in any order because I've never believed in numerical rankings. They are all favorites. And I could have listed dozens more. So stay tuned, as we plan to continue with more categories of favorites. Of course, that means I have dinner plans galore, and hopefully, now, so do you.

901 N. Second St., 215-238-0630; www.standardtap.com

The one that started it all with great local craft beer and serious food still captures a certain super-bar magic in Northern Liberties. A recent meal of fried smelts, chicken pie, roast pork, and awesome monkfish and clams proved that chef Carolynn Angle is still on her game.

56 S. Second St., 215-238-5888; www.khyberpasspub.com

Old City's classic rock-and-roll beer bar has been revamped and given a fantastic Southern makeover, with the best New Orleans-inspired cooking in town, plus barbecue, and a serious craft-beer list. Aside from the fun brunch (chicory-flavored cafe au lait and beignets), the bacon-grease popcorn may be the best reason of all to visit.

541 E. Girard Ave., 215-739-1700; www.kraftworkbar.com

Fishtown's buzzing nightlife avenue has several worthy gastropubs, but few as handsome as this corner bar with tiger-maple communal tables and a tool motif ode to industrial days past. One of the best draft-beer lists, and a seasonal-minded menu from chef Brian Lofink, with a great burger and house-made brat wrapped in pastry, plus salads, veggie options.

2425 Grays Ferry Ave. (at Catharine), 215-735-2202; www.resurrectionalehouse.com

Brendan Hartranft and Leigh Maida have a trio of vibrant beer destinations (Memphis Taproom and Local 44), but this handsome neighborhood hang has the most ambitious kitchen. Joe Chmiko's diverse menu ranges between American (fried chicken; pork and grits) and Mediterranean (pan con tomate; homemade tagliatelle carbonara); also exceptional vegetarian dishes with a fondness for wild mushrooms.

1509 Mifflin St., 215-271-7787; southphiladelphiataproom.com

With its double-wide townhouse barroom and take-out beer-and-coffee annex (Brew/Ultimo), the Tap Room has become the epicenter of South Philly's beer revolution, and an engine for neighborhood rebirth. Well-chosen draft list and impressively brew-versed waitresses. Culinary gonzo chef Scott Schroeder puts consistent gastro into this menu of American comforts (fried PB&J) and Mexican (wild boar and head cheese tacos) with wit and indulgence.

1120 Pine St., 267-687-1555 www.thefarmandfisherman.com

This was one of the star debuts of 2011, with Josh Lawler, formerly of Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and his wife, Colleen, showing the pretenders how farm-to-table is done. Artful food and personal service are the focus of this pleasant, 30-seat room, where the menu changes daily to showcase seasonal and often foraged ingredients.

 Upgraded from 2 bells

1617 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-551-5000; www.fondphilly.com

The couple behind this BYOB - chef Lee Styer and pastry chef Jessie Prawlucki - have made more than enough progress to step up to three bells. Service was refined as ever. Lee's crispy pork belly is Philly's best. But the other French-influenced cooking - gnocchi with lobster and black trumpets; perfect duck with beans and sausage; exquisite tangerine cheesecake - made me a believer.

 Upgraded from 2 bells  

1713 South St., 215-545-4448; www.pumpkinphilly.com

Always a charmer, this pioneer of the BYOB from Ian Moroney and Hillary Bor near the former Graduate Hospital has earned its third bell. The dining room was recently renovated with salvaged-wood planks, and seats removed for more space. Christopher Kearse as chef de cuisine has really helped with creativity and techniques that enhance ingredients without overwhelming.

37 S. 9th St., 215-564-2925; www.matyson.com

The young guns are still having fun at one of Center City's early BYO hits, where weekly tasting menus (five courses for $45!), sophisticated lunches, and the world's best coconut cream pie are always a draw. Try the lobster ramen remaining from the crew's recent noodle bar pop-up.

119 Fayette St., Conshohocken, 610-397-0888; www.blackfishrestaurant.com

There's a reason the spare white rooms of this contemporary Conshy storefront are perpetually filled with wine-toting devotees. Chef Chip Roman's BYO remains one of the most sophisticated places in the western burbs to dine, with a focus on seafood that's refined, seasonal, and inventive.

110 S. 13th St., 215-546-9300; www.barbuzzo.com

The doyennes of Midtown Village - Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran - have a runaway hit with this Mediterranean wine bar, a stylish hub that radiates energy and seasonal dishes. From top-notch pizzas to smart service and Turney's inspired creations, Barbuzzo captures the easy sophistication of the day.

926 South St., 215-592-8180; www.supperphilly.com.

Caterers Mitch and Jennifer Prensky helped lead the way for Philly's small-plate movement here, with contemporary cooking among the city's most inventive. Brunch has become a big draw, with produce grown at Blue Elephant farm in Newtown Square, where Prensky grows and harvests.

135 S. 18th St., 215-825-7030 www.akitchenphilly.com

Chef Bryan Sikora (ex-Django, Talula's Table) has made a resounding return to the Center City scene in this spare yet vibrant Rittenhouse cafe, where clean flavors, smart combinations, homemade English muffins, and stylish small plates define a modern aesthetic of casual sophistication.

306-08 Market St., 215-625-9425; www.forkrestaurant.com

There may be no restaurant duo more capable than front-of-the-house pro Ellen Yin and her talented chef, Terence Feury - and few all-purpose restaurants as reliably good as Fork. This trailblazing bistro is as good as ever thanks to the ex-Striped Bass chef's talent for seafood, charcuterie, and Wednesday's bargain prix-fixe meals.

Cira Centre, 2929 Arch St., 215-222-2363; www.jgdomestic.com

Jose Garces' Cira Centre restaurant is an ode to great American ingredients, from Oregon truffles to Lancaster pumpkins, with whole heirloom animals in between. The bar makes stellar cocktails and the kitchen's American interpretations are ever-changing. Train-station dining is rarely so good.

777 S. Broad St., 267-687-2170; www.mytashan.com

Tiffin meets Buddakan at this groundbreaking new venture from Munish Narula, whose Western and Indian chefs have collaborated to update authentic Indian flavors with high-end ingredients and contemporary presentations - and shatter the curry-house cliches, with thrilling results.

108 Chestnut St., 215-922-1888; 4356 Main St. (Manayunk), 215-508-2066; www.handynasty.net

Szechuan master Han Chiang's peppercorn-fired pyrotechnics and opinions are the draw to his Old City branch, a must-stop for spicy adventure diners who crave the most exciting regional Chinese flavors around. Will Main Liners at his new Manayunk branch embrace their eccentric host?

614 N. Second St., 215-923-8080; www.koozeedoo.com

David Gilberg and Carla Gonçalves, the couple behind this romantic NoLibs BYO, elevate traditional Portuguese flavors to rare sophistication with crispy duck rice, caldo verde soup, plump sardines, and a piri-piri-spiced frango chicken-sparerib Sunday special worth bringing a group for.

1001 Spruce St., 215-922-1773; www.kanellarestaurant.com

A far cry from the typical taverna, this corner BYOB is a heartfelt homage to the authentic Cypriot-Greek flavors of Konstantinos Pitsillides' island home, with an emphasis on soulful game stews, grape-leaf-wrapped fish, and ancient grains. A rare display of the power in rustic flavors.

1091 Lancaster Ave., Berwyn, 610-725-9000; www.tastenectar.com

This high-style pan-Asian palace is more now than just "the Buddakan of the burbs" in large part due to talented Patrick Feury. A splendid recent meal featured crispy lobster dumplings and achingly good steamed pork buns, reaffirming Nectar as that rare impressive combo of substance and style.

1927 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-271-5626; www.levirtu.com

South Philly's best Italian (and my third-favorite in the city) serves an impressive array of house-made salumi and elegant updates to authentic Abruzzese flavors from chef Joe Cicala. Add great wine, proper service, and the rustic warmth of the dining room and patio for a unique, refined experience.

412 S. 13th St., 215-732-2647; www.amisphilly.com

Marc Vetri's most casual restaurant to date is a boisterous industrial space where chef Brad Spence serves simple yet striking combinations inspired by Rome. The small-portion format isn't for everyone. But there's hardly a false note on the plate, and the brunch is a surprise treat.

1333 New Rd. (Route 9), Plaza 9 Shopping Center, Northfield, N.J., 609-646-8189; www.lukepalladino.com

Luke Palladino is back in casinoland with a large space in Harrah's, but thankfully, he has also kept this intimate 30-seat BYO on the mainland as his jewel, where his truffled grissini, fried cauliflower, and hand-stamped ravioli remain one of South Jersey's most compelling dining draws.

618 Collings Ave., Collingswood, 856-854-2670; www.zeppolirestaurant.com

Joey Baldino's exciting debut as a chef-owner took Collingswood's already-crowded Italian scene up a notch, with a heartfelt ode to authentic Sicilian flavors informed by the finesse of his pedigree (Vetri, Amada) and the soul of his South Philly youth. Noise is the only obstacle to a third bell.

2012 Sansom St., 215-875-8116; www.melogranorestaurant.com

Roman-born Gianluca Demontis' magic touch for trattoria cooking has made this the class of the Philly's Italian BYOBs for nearly a decade. A menu of deceptively simple classics has gradually become more daring since the move to a larger Sansom Street space.

116 E. Kings Highway, Haddonfield, 856-354-8200; www.fujirestaurant.com.

The creative kaiseki tastings from the region's most masterly Japanese chef, Matt Ito, remain after three decades among our most extraordinary adventures. The mall locale and low-key service keep the buzz down. But the ascent of Ito's son, Jesse, to the sushi bar bodes well for Fuji's future.

2201 Spruce St., 215-735-4900; www.memerestaurant.com

Less is more at this airy, open-kitchen corner restaurant, where the minimalist space comes alive with David Katz's vivid bistro-plus flavors. From Thursday fried chicken lunches to the sizzling mussels, cured foie gras brûlée, and perfect trout, this is focused cooking at its best.

701 S. Fourth St., 215-238-1888; www.southwarkrestaurant.com.

Sheri and Kip Waide's tavern remains a go-to haunt for the city's best manhattan followed by an inventive meal. The addition of charcuterie-crazy Nick Macri has kept the menu vibrant with wonderful seared mackerel, and a calf's liver with caraway spaetzle that has its own following.

500 S. 20th St., 215-985-1922; www.meritagephiladelphia.com

Michele DiPietro and Irene Landy's sophisticated restaurant has become a destination since the arrival of ex-Susanna Foo chef Anne Coll, whose elegant and seasonal Asian fusion cuisine has been trend-setting (Korean fried chicken, anyone?) and one of the best dining values in town.

7 W. King St., Malvern, 610-644-4009, www.restaurantalba.com

Sean Weinberg's wood-fired ode to Italian flavors and local ingredients has matured into one of the suburbs' best restaurants. The transition from BYO to full-service with a fine Italian wine list has continued with recent expansion into a gracious bar across from the Malvern train station.