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Table Talk: Taqueria del Sol comes to Willow Grove

Willow Grove's enviable complement of Southwest/Mex chains now includes the region's first Taqueria del Sol - an Atlanta-based franchise that combines the wide-open, fast-food atmosphere of Chipotle and Qdoba with alcoholic beverages such as those offered at nearby Mad Mex. Taqueria del Sol recently replaced a Baja Fresh at 4001 Welsh Rd. (215-657-4500).

Pho Ta - roughly translated as "My Way" - is Luan Nguyen's new place at 1111 S. 11th, formerly his Pho Hoa franchise.
Pho Ta - roughly translated as "My Way" - is Luan Nguyen's new place at 1111 S. 11th, formerly his Pho Hoa franchise.Read moreRON TARVER / Staff

Willow Grove's enviable complement of Southwest/Mex chains now includes the region's first Taqueria del Sol - an Atlanta-based franchise that combines the wide-open, fast-food atmosphere of Chipotle and Qdoba with alcoholic beverages such as those offered at nearby Mad Mex. Taqueria del Sol recently replaced a Baja Fresh at 4001 Welsh Rd. (215-657-4500).

Specialty is brisket (served in tacos or an enchilada) with turnip greens and habanero slaw on the side.

What's new

There comes a time in a franchisee's life when he wants to strike out on his own. Last summer, Luan Nguyen left the Pho Hoa fold after five years at 1111 S. 11th St. (215-755-4000). With the stroke of a pen, the restaurant became Pho Ta (that's "my way," roughly translated). Nguyen spruced up the interior and expanded the menu to include his family dishes - something impossible under the Pho Hoa umbrella. There's a service bar for mixed drinks.

Del Rossi's Cheesesteak Co., replacing a long-shuttered vegetarian restaurant at 538 N. Fourth St. (267-687-8874), puts brothers Michael and David Frank in business together. David, 40, was in the financial world, while most recently Michael, 43 - who's been in the food biz since he was 17 - was involved in two Mike's Steaks operations - one in the Comcast Center, which he sold to a partner, and in Two Liberty Place Two, which is now Rick's Steaks. It's open Sunday to Thursday from 9 a.m. to midnight, till 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday nights.

Chick-a-Lic, a chicken specialist, is open across from Thomas Jefferson University Hospital at 138 S. 11th St. Jack Chen and Ben Wang of the nearby Spice 28 are behind this quick-serve, which sells salads, burritos, rice bowl, wings, fingers, and soups.

To market

Wegmans and Whole Foods have been carving out space in their supermarkets for small beer- and wine-focused restaurants. A smaller grocer is catching on. The Brown family, which owns 10 ShopRite stores in the Philly region, plans to open a restaurant in its store in Norriton Square, on Germantown Pike at Route 202 in East Norriton Township, Montgomery County. The company recently applied for a liquor license. Don't prepare to bend an elbow quite yet. Sandy Brown says the restaurant, which will serve craft beer, needs to be designed. It will be part of a large renovation at the store and won't open for at least a year. More immediately, the Browns are prepping their 11th market, due to open in June at the former Tasty Baking plant on Fox Street.

Chef chat

Ralic's on South, the seafooder/sports bar coming together for a December opening at 117-119 South St., has hired chef John Anninos, a Culinary Institute of America grad who spent 2008 and 2009 working on a commercial fishing boat after a five-year stint as chef-owner of the Morning Catch in Audubon, Camden County. His past also includes Striped Bass, Hush, and the Filomena restaurants in New Jersey.

New chef at the Rittenhouse "fast slow food" outlet Rotisseur (105 S. 21st St.): John Kasenchak, whose disparate kitchen experience includes Table 31, Murray's Deli, and the Garces outposts Tinto and Village Whiskey. The shop has restored Saturday service, so it's open noon to 9:30 every day but Sunday.

On the way out

Doc Watson's Pub managed to operate at 216 S. 11th St. for nearly 30 years (minus a spell seven years ago after management was cited for packing the upstairs with underage drinkers). The latest bar at that address lasted 51 days. Nov. 17 was last call at the Butcher & the Brewer. Before that, also under owners Matt and Colleen Swartz, it was the Boilermaker for six months. Under different owners, it was known as Blue Bear Tavern. The building was sold, and new owners plan to convert it to offices.