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Fish cooked twice is doubly nice

Fiery fish cooked twice is nice Keeping up with Han Chiang's Sichuan machine is no small task. No sooner had I eaten at his new Han Dynasty in University City than it was no longer his newest branch, with the recent opening of HD Cherry Hill. The recent d

Double-cooked fish at Han Dynasty. CRAIG LABAN
Double-cooked fish at Han Dynasty. CRAIG LABANRead more
    Inquirer
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Keeping up with Han Chiang's Sichuan machine is no small task.

No sooner had I eaten at his new Han Dynasty in University City than it was no longer his newest branch, with the recent opening of HD Cherry Hill. The recent dynastic expansion of the fiery chain gives devoted regulars pause.

But his West Philly perch in the old MidAtlantic is a step up, style-wise, from his 3-bell Old City lair, both in decor and service. And our food didn't suffer one bit. I even discovered a new favorite, this double-cooked flounder that gets pan-crisped once, then goes into the wok to finish with leeks, hot peppers, funky fermented beans, and a chile oil-peppercorn sauce that brought just the right touch of numbing heat.

Double-cooked fish, $17.95, Han Dynasty University City, 3711 Market St., 215-222-3711.

- Craig LaBan

    Inquirer