Putting dessert on a pedestal

"Some are born great, some achieve greatness, and others have greatness thrust upon them," William Shakespeare wrote in Twelfth Night.

I like to think his words were written for shortcake. An unadorned one right out of the oven is very good, and with the right recipe touch, can achieve greatness. But when you ladle on sugared strawberries and a cloud of whipped cream, a shortcake is thrust into dessert greatness.

Makes 8

For the berries:

8 cups strawberries, hulled

6 tablespoons sugar

For the shortcake:

2 cups flour

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoon brown sugar, packed

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

6 tablespoon cold butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

2/3 cup half-and-half, plus extra for brushing

1 egg

Sparkling sugar

2 cups heavy whipping cream

2 to 3 tablespoons powdered sugar, to taste

1. Slice the berries and sprinkle with sugar. Let sit at room temperature, stirring occasionally, until the berries are juicy, about 30 minutes.

2. To make shortcake: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place rack in middle position. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

3. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugars, baking powder, and salt.

4. Add cold butter pieces, working them into the flour with your fingers, until the mixture resembles cornmeal and no large lumps of butter remain.

5. In a small bowl, whisk together half-and-half and egg. Stir into flour until dough comes together in a sticky mass.

6. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured counter and knead lightly until it comes together, about 30 seconds. Dust the counter with a bit more flour, then pat dough into a rectangle about 1/2-inch thick. Cut 6 rounds with a biscuit cutter, pressing straight down - twisting can seal the layers, leading to a dense shortcake - then place them upside-down on a baking sheet (helps ensure the highest rise). Gather the scraps, knead and cut more.

7. Brush each round with some half-and-half, then sprinkle with sparkling sugar.

8. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, until just golden. Let cool on wire rack.

9. To assemble: Combine cream with powdered sugar and whip until stiff. Slice each shortcake in half and lay the bottoms on individual serving plates.

10. Spoon a portion of fruit over each bottom, top with a dollop of whipped cream, then cap with the shortcake tops. Serve immediately.

America's Test Kitchen Family Baking Book

Per serving (without whipped cream): 329 calories, 12g fat, 167 mg sodium, 51 g carbohydrates, 7 g saturated fat, 57 mg calcium, 6 g protein, 54 mg cholesterol, 4 g dietary fiber.