There are lots of tacos these days in South Philly, but the sashimi tuna tacos at Ippolito's are unique.

Tacos where? Ippolito's is the retail arm of Samuels & Son and long a favorite spot to buy seafood.

But there have been new developments at the old fish market of late. A line of grass-fed beef is one. But so is an ambitious expansion of the prepared foods menu, including tacos - a nod to the recent neighborhood influx of both Mexican immigrants and hipsters.

There are five tacos on the list, including a shrimp and crab with corn-avocado salsa, and a lobster with pineapple-chipotle remoulade.

I love the cuminy seared tuna taco, though, because the fish is so pristine. An extra bonus is a folded crispy shell (vs. the usual round soft) that was retro in look only.

These tortillas, from excellent San Roman on 9th Street, are fried fresh to order, framing the chipotle-sauced cubes of ruby fish and lettuce in the most delicate, earthy crunch.

- Craig LaBan

Sashimi tuna tacos, Ippolito's Seafood Co., 1300 Dickinson St., 215-389-8906