Crosstown kabobs

If you skewer it, they will come. That's been the idea behind Kabobeesh's 13-year run as a cabbie favorite and go-to spot for Pakistani kabobs in West Philadelphia. We shall see if that holds true for Kabobeesh's spiffy new second location in Queen Village, in the former Latest Dish. The spices have been toned down for a decidedly broader audience. But the charcoal fires are still genuine, giving the beef and chicken resham kabobs an authentic taste, the ground meat tinted with earthy cumin, cilantro, and chiles. Add a weekend-only side of soulful haleem, a slow-cooked meaty porridge of beef, lentils, and barley, and you've got a hearty meal - from skewer to stew - that should help keep the long lines at nearby Jim's Steaks in check.

- Craig LaBan

Resham kabob meal, $10.99; haleem $5.99 a side, Kabobeesh, 613 S. 4th St., 215-413-0881.