Good things come in a "truckle," the cylindrical form that often holds British farmhouse cheddar.

Among the most surprising things about Flory's Truckle, though, is that it's made in Missouri.

True, some excellent Brit-style clothbound cheeses have been coming from the cheddar masters of Vermont (Jasper Hill and Cabot's collaboration) as well as California (Fiscalini.)

But this is the first great cheddar (actually the first great cheese of any sort) I've had from Missouri. It's handmade in small batches from the raw milk of the Flory family's 30 Jersey cows, wrapped in lard-smeared muslin, and aged for 60 days.

The cheeses are then sent to the Milton Creamery in Iowa for an additional year of aging. The butter-yellow result is firm yet creamy-textured on the bite, with a traditional earthiness (instead of sharpness) that lasts long after the truckle's gone.

- Craig LaBan
Flory's Truckle, $27.99 a pound, Downtown Cheese, Reading Terminal Market; 215-351-7412.