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Good Taste: Flatbread at Tria Taproom

Tria's kitchen upgrade Jon Myerow says the new Tria Taproom was meant to be a more "masculine" version of the Tria cafes, with a larger craft beer focus on its 40 taps and a whitewashed brick decor trimmed with industrial blackened steel and rec

The wood-grilled flatbread with gorgonzola, duck confit, cherry-fig mostarda, and foie gras mousse from Tria Taproom (2005 Walnut St.)
The wood-grilled flatbread with gorgonzola, duck confit, cherry-fig mostarda, and foie gras mousse from Tria Taproom (2005 Walnut St.)Read moreCRAIG LaBAN / Staff
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Jon Myerow says the new Tria Taproom was meant to be a more "masculine" version of the Tria cafes, with a larger craft beer focus on its 40 taps and a whitewashed brick decor trimmed with industrial blackened steel and reclaimed wood.

The biggest difference, though, is in the kitchen, where a wood-fired grill is a big step up from the toaster oven/panini-pressed limits of the cafes.

I enjoyed several dishes here, including crispy fingerling "fries" with creamy Taleggio dip and tender octopus with a sweet cherry lambic glaze.

The grilled flatbread pizzas, though, created by In Riva's Arthur Cavaliere (as a consultant) are worth noting. I especially loved the oval topped with salty plumes of duck confit, tangy-sweet cherry-fig mostarda, piquant Gorgonzola, and creamy poufs of tan foie gras mousse. Make that a "manly" mousse.

- Craig LaBan
 
Duck confit-foie gras flatbread, $15, Tria Taproom, 2005 Walnut St., 215-557-8277; triacafe.com/taproom

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